Range Scrap Smelting?

[UpTheIrons]

Good day, gents!

With my recent decision to start shooting lead, I said to myself, "Self, why not just go all the way and make your own bullets, too?" And I said to myself, "Sure!" I am fortunate enough to have been able to scrounge a batch of range scrap today, with the possibility of getting more later.

My question is: How much do I need to clean this stuff up before I smelt it? There are bits of rock, dirt, clay pigeons, stems of plants and such among the slugs, lead, plated, and jacketed bullets. I know it will either float to the top or burn off, but does that just make the process longer?

I'm also trying to figure out how much I have. My online cheat sheet says 1900 cubic inches (the tub is 22" across and 5" of lead in it), which means that at 6.55 ounces per cubic inch, that's over 750 pounds! Taking out the empty space and all the copper jackets and other crud in there (say a 30% reduction), that's still over 500 pounds. Can those numbers be right?

I know I had a load in the back of the truck on the way home - I could feel it, so that could be right. I was backed up pretty close to the berm, so it wasn't too hard to take a 1/3 full bucket, dump it, and get another.

[Jumping Frog]

... There are bits of rock, dirt, clay pigeons, stems of plants and such among the slugs, lead, plated, and jacketed bullets. I know it will either float to the top or burn off, but does that just make the process longer?

That is the cool thing about smelting. Start with a hodge-podge mess and end up with shiny ingots.

Maybe heating things up that are then discarded takes a little more time than heating up just the lead, but it is still way faster than trying to clean the mess up by hand sorting.

Two ways to heat faster. Make sure your flame is shielded from the wind and put some kind of heat cover over the pot to keep the heat in.

[UpTheIrons]

Great, thanks!

That'll save me a good bit of time, then. Now, all I need is an old cast iron pot and some cheap molds. Looks like I need to hit Goodwill and the thrift shop tomorrow. And then refill my propane bottles.

[Jumping Frog]

Great, thanks!

That'll save me a good bit of time, then. Now, all I need is an old cast iron pot and some cheap molds. Looks like I need to hit Goodwill and the thrift shop tomorrow. And then refill my propane bottles.

Another option is Sams Club has a Restaurant Mixing Bowl - Stainless Steel - 13 qt. (Item #: 995384 Model #: 80202/542) for about $15.

I've smelted hundreds and hundreds of lbs in it.

[Jumping Frog]

The cover also helps when you accidentally get an unfired .22 round in the mix.

That is always exciting!

[MoJo]

The cover also helps when you accidentally get an unfired .22 round in the mix.

That is always exciting!

As is a drop of water!

[aggie67]

Warning!! this will develop into a very bad habit--I can testify to this. Usually got a ton of ingots in the shop and several tons of processed and "virgin" scrap in the barn. I do know that a 55 gallon drum of wheel weights can really strain my big skid loader (Bobcat) with forks on it. But I hauled in more from Oklahoma and Arkansas last week.

[UpTheIrons]

Thanks for all the hints and reminders! As usual, great insight from the "pros" is only a question away.

[UpTheIrons]

One more (for now!) question.

Flux. What's the best option? I've seen sawdust, tea lights, and bits of candle wax used. is any one of them preferable to another?

[MoJo]

Oldtimers used Beef Tallow (rendered beef fat) but it is smoky, smelly, and generally funky. Hardwood sawdust is the best but, beeswax works real well especially during smelting. A ready source of beeswax ls wax toilet rings they are cheap, and available at the corner hardware store. A common error is to use too much flux and to not stir the melt to assure full fluxing of the metal.

[Jumping Frog]

Sawdust or cheap candles - either, it doesn't matter.

When I am smelting, I use candles (have a whole box of old used candles that will give me more flux than I need for this lifetime). It burns off, and leaves the surface clear so I can cleanly ladle the melt into ingot molds (muffin tins).

When I am casting bullets, I use sawdust. I put enough on that it leaves a layer of sawdust on top of the melt. That serves as a protective layer that prevents the surface of the melt from oxidizing. Since I use a bottom pour pot, the protective sawdust layer just stays up on top.

For both melts, periodic stirring to mix the flux into the melt is important. I use a wooden stick to stir it (the stick itself also serves as flux!).

[UpTheIrons]

For both melts, periodic stirring to mix the flux into the melt is important. I use a wooden stick to stir it (the stick itself also serves as flux!).

OK, that's what I was wondering - if the flux needed to be "folded" in, or if stirring was enough.