If I was in Texas I would call 911 and report the attempted robbery.
If I was in NYC I would have to consider beating feat to avoid going to jail for violating the muggers rights in a Socialist Workers Paradise.
Situation dissolved....now what?
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Re: Situation dissolved....now what?
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Not sure if that is EXACTLY the same topic, but my that is how I would deal with most of the draw but don't fire situations.
Not sure if that is EXACTLY the same topic, but my that is how I would deal with most of the draw but don't fire situations.
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Re: Situation dissolved....now what?
I'm not advocating that you do nothing, but you better be pretty good at disarming people if you're going to do that. That's why I am NEVER without a gun. Not ever. I'm in no condition to try and disarm anybody, particularly someone younger and stronger than myself. That's a real good way to get killed unless I am confident that I can win. Although I hate the though of it, if I were unarmed I would stay quiet and as calm as possible, give him my money, and hope that he lets me live. Only, and I mean ONLY if I thought I was about to die would I try to attack and disarm my attacker. At the very least I might be giving my wife a chance to get away.Beiruty wrote:If I am unarmed, I try to disarm the BG if feasible or disengage.Crossfire wrote:Be a good victim.Beiruty wrote:You immediate call 911 and report exactly what happened. Assume you have no gun, what do you do?
But like I said, I am never without a gun, for exactly these reasons. If someone comes after me with deadly intent and a weapon in his hand, I'm going to try and shoot him in self-defense before things ever gets to the "I have to disarm him in a mano-a-mano fight" stage. That would otherwise be suicide.
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Re: Situation dissolved....now what?
WRT the OP's question: A guy who ties to mug me with a knife probably makes a career out of doing crininal acts, so I find it highly unlikely that if he gets away without being shot he is going to bother with calling the police and making a false report. Nothing good comes of having contact with the police in his world, and for all he knows the cops are looking for him for one of his past exploits.
Maybe if a cop down the block spots him running and stops him for questioning, he might pull try to bull his way thru with claiming I threatened him, but I think that will work itself out in the wash.
For those of you that think the answer to a knife is (only) a gun, good luck. Any mugger with half a brain cell is not going to show you his knife until he is too close for you to have any chance of pulling your own weapon. To preserve his overwhelming advantage, he is not going to show you his cards until the last second, within touching distance, where he can put his blade on your body, make sure you can see the muzzle opening, or feel the brick or fist against your head. This is far too late to be trying to draw, especially from the usual concealment locations. (this is where a hammerless or hammer-shrouded snubby in the jacket pocket or purse really shines...as long as you had your hand on it to start with.)
Whether you trained for it or not, whether you think you are too old or too frail to learn empty hands techniques or not, you will have to deal initially with a knife/club/brick/fist/gun threat with empty hands. Better to learn what you can to handle the initial onslaught and then make enough distance to employ the great equalizer. And even if you train, it is still a very chancy business.
If I do happen to recognize badness coming....I used to be of the mind that only "drawing the gun and shooting" was one movement, but the more I read, learn, study, and train, the more I think I am apt to draw earlier in the cycle, not to shoot but to be ready to shoot. Better to explain drawing "too early" than everyone else wondering why I drew "too late."
It is great if you can avoid this -- observing the rule of avoiding the Four Stupids should take care of most of it, and being reasonably alert will help with some more, but if someone decides he wants to get close to you, he will likely do so.
Anyone who is willing to travel to Austin area and wants to try out scenarios like this, PM me. I am a member of a central Texas group where we fairly regularly practice these kinds of scenarios, with (training) knives, sticks, guns, FoF stuff, etc.
Maybe if a cop down the block spots him running and stops him for questioning, he might pull try to bull his way thru with claiming I threatened him, but I think that will work itself out in the wash.
For those of you that think the answer to a knife is (only) a gun, good luck. Any mugger with half a brain cell is not going to show you his knife until he is too close for you to have any chance of pulling your own weapon. To preserve his overwhelming advantage, he is not going to show you his cards until the last second, within touching distance, where he can put his blade on your body, make sure you can see the muzzle opening, or feel the brick or fist against your head. This is far too late to be trying to draw, especially from the usual concealment locations. (this is where a hammerless or hammer-shrouded snubby in the jacket pocket or purse really shines...as long as you had your hand on it to start with.)
Whether you trained for it or not, whether you think you are too old or too frail to learn empty hands techniques or not, you will have to deal initially with a knife/club/brick/fist/gun threat with empty hands. Better to learn what you can to handle the initial onslaught and then make enough distance to employ the great equalizer. And even if you train, it is still a very chancy business.
If I do happen to recognize badness coming....I used to be of the mind that only "drawing the gun and shooting" was one movement, but the more I read, learn, study, and train, the more I think I am apt to draw earlier in the cycle, not to shoot but to be ready to shoot. Better to explain drawing "too early" than everyone else wondering why I drew "too late."
It is great if you can avoid this -- observing the rule of avoiding the Four Stupids should take care of most of it, and being reasonably alert will help with some more, but if someone decides he wants to get close to you, he will likely do so.
Anyone who is willing to travel to Austin area and wants to try out scenarios like this, PM me. I am a member of a central Texas group where we fairly regularly practice these kinds of scenarios, with (training) knives, sticks, guns, FoF stuff, etc.
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Re: Situation dissolved....now what?
Faced with that situation, a person has already lost the situational awareness battle and the person's OODA loop is starting severely behind the BG's action.ELB wrote:For those of you that think the answer to a knife is (only) a gun, good luck. Any mugger with half a brain cell is not going to show you his knife until he is too close for you to have any chance of pulling your own weapon. To preserve his overwhelming advantage, he is not going to show you his cards until the last second, within touching distance, where he can put his blade on your body, make sure you can see the muzzle opening, or feel the brick or fist against your head. This is far too late to be trying to draw, especially from the usual concealment locations. (this is where a hammerless or hammer-shrouded snubby in the jacket pocket or purse really shines...as long as you had your hand on it to start with.)
Playing "catch-up" is a tough seat to sit in, where most scenarios include you getting hurt.
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Re: Situation dissolved....now what?
All of these are valid points which is why I don't make a habit of allowing unknown people to close distance on me in public parking lots and other questionable areas. I've been in that situation for real and avoided it by being aware, clearing my pocket holster early while still maintaining concealment with the back of my hand, and locking a laser stare on the BG while warning him I had no desire or reason to speak with him. Most experienced BG's should recognize that a good retreat is better than a poor stand.ELB wrote:For those of you that think the answer to a knife is (only) a gun, good luck. Any mugger with half a brain cell is not going to show you his knife until he is too close for you to have any chance of pulling your own weapon. To preserve his overwhelming advantage, he is not going to show you his cards until the last second, within touching distance, where he can put his blade on your body, make sure you can see the muzzle opening, or feel the brick or fist against your head. This is far too late to be trying to draw, especially from the usual concealment locations. (this is where a hammerless or hammer-shrouded snubby in the jacket pocket or purse really shines...as long as you had your hand on it to start with.)
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If I do happen to recognize badness coming....I used to be of the mind that only "drawing the gun and shooting" was one movement, but the more I read, learn, study, and train, the more I think I am apt to draw earlier in the cycle, not to shoot but to be ready to shoot. Better to explain drawing "too early" than everyone else wondering why I drew "too late."
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