New reloader here

[texasmusic]

So I got myself the Lee Anniversary kit for Christmas this year and I finally got started using it the other day. I have the 4 set of .45 acp dies and some of my own pickup brass as well as some generously donated by our member Tregs. I am starting out slow until I get the hang of things and I have a few questions for you experienced guys out there so here they come...

I have Lyman 49th manual. I don't yet have a tumbler so I put my brass in a mesh bag and ran it in the dishwasher with just water. Cleaned them up decently but there's still some powder residue inside the brass and the primer pocket. Does the brass have to be spotless of residue to start the reloading? I already sized them and deprimed and gave them another rinse.

I used case lube with a couple of the first ones and some without case lube. Couldn't tell the difference so I quit using it. These are carbide dies so I won't need to use the case lube correct?

Aluminum cases... Toss these? I didn't size them because I only have 4 or 5 of them and Lyman says not to use them...

Small primer vs large primer: how do I tell which one I have, are all 45 cases large primer? Also which cases need to be tossed due to crimped primers and how do I identify them via the stamp on the base. (I read some of this on here but I would like to clarify)

Components... I'm looking to build a good practice round. I haven't checked the charts yet but Midway seemed to be too high on their bullets which I figure I need to pick first and then find a load from the book that matches the bullet. Where can I get some cheap ones? I'll eventually be loading 30-06. I'd like to make some good practice rounds for my rifle as well as some Garand safe loads.

Lead bullets: Not glock safe from what I hear? How can I tell if a cast bullet will be safe in a gun? Not very important right now as I'm not set up to cast anything but it's something I might look into in the future.

Thanks in advance for any help to my concerns. I'm not in any real rush to get started here, I'm perfectly content to keep cleaning brass and depriming what I have until I have the knowledge required to make this a safe hobby.

[MoJo]

So I got myself the Lee Anniversary kit for Christmas this year and I finally got started using it the other day. I have the 4 set of .45 acp dies and some of my own pickup brass as well as some generously donated by our member Tregs. I am starting out slow until I get the hang of things and I have a few questions for you experienced guys out there so here they come...

I have Lyman 49th manual. I don't yet have a tumbler so I put my brass in a mesh bag and ran it in the dishwasher with just water. Cleaned them up decently but there's still some powder residue inside the brass and the primer pocket. Does the brass have to be spotless of residue to start the reloading? I already sized them and deprimed and gave them another rinse.

No they don't need to be spotless a little residue inside rhe case is OK I scrape the primer pockets with a small screwdriver blade. They make a tool but???

I used case lube with a couple of the first ones and some without case lube. Couldn't tell the difference so I quit using it. These are carbide dies so I won't need to use the case lube correct?

Lube is unnecessary with carbide dies, that's the beauty part.

Aluminum cases... Toss these? I didn't size them because I only have 4 or 5 of them and Lyman says not to use them...

Toss 'em.

Small primer vs large primer: how do I tell which one I have, are all 45 cases large primer? Also which cases need to be tossed due to crimped primers and how do I identify them via the stamp on the base. (I read some of this on here but I would like to clarify)

Not all .45 ACP brass uses large primers. Ammo loaded with "clean" components is usually primed with small primers. Sort them visually The large primers are .210" (a little under the size of a .22 bullet) Small primers are about .180" Size difference is noticeable if you are comparing them. A lot of small primer .45 brass has NT (non toxic) on the head stamp.

Components... I'm looking to build a good practice round. I haven't checked the charts yet but Midway seemed to be too high on their bullets which I figure I need to pick first and then find a load from the book that matches the bullet. Where can I get some cheap ones? I'll eventually be loading 30-06. I'd like to make some good practice rounds for my rifle as well as some Garand safe loads.

There are a lot of places to order supplies. For powder and primers your local gun shop or gun show will be the best bet because of Haz mat charges. Lots of good bullets try Berries, Precision, Rainier, etc.

Lead bullets: Not glock safe from what I hear? How can I tell if a cast bullet will be safe in a gun? Not very important right now as I'm not set up to cast anything but it's something I might look into in the future.

Glocks will lead up with stock barrels and possibly Kaboom use jacked, copper coated or polymer coated.

Thanks in advance for any help to my concerns. I'm not in any real rush to get started here, I'm perfectly content to keep cleaning brass and depriming what I have until I have the knowledge required to make this a safe hobby.

[OldCannon]

Does the brass have to be spotless of residue to start the reloading?

Nope. Also, I don't generally recommend using washing machines that are used for human clothes/dishes to be used for cleaning lead-based products. Spend the $$ and get a vibratory cleaner. Better peace of mind.

I used case lube with a couple of the first ones and some without case lube. Couldn't tell the difference so I quit using it. These are carbide dies so I won't need to use the case lube correct?

Case lube should never be needed for straight-walled ammo reloading (pistols)

Aluminum cases... Toss these? I didn't size them because I only have 4 or 5 of them and Lyman says not to use them...

Yes, definitely toss alum and steel cases. Only reload brass/nickel.

Small primer vs large primer: how do I tell which one I have, are all 45 cases large primer? Also which cases need to be tossed due to crimped primers and how do I identify them via the stamp on the base. (I read some of this on here but I would like to clarify)

IIRC, Aguila brass uses small pistol primers. I don't really reload 45, so I'll let others chime in.

Lead bullets: Not glock safe from what I hear? How can I tell if a cast bullet will be safe in a gun? Not very important right now as I'm not set up to cast anything but it's something I might look into in the future.

1) Lead bullets will void the Glock warranty (no biggie)
2) Polygonal rifling is prone to more lead fouling than rifled barrels. Want to shoot lead? Switch to a rifled barrel (i.e., Lone Wolf, Bar-sto, etc.). Problem solved. You CAN shoot lead in a Glock polygonal barrel, you just need to clean more often.

[texasmusic]

Thanks mojo and oldcannon,

How do you tell a nickel from aluminum case?

[MoJo]

Nickel cases are shiny. Aluminum cases are dull and are stamped "NR" on the head. Blazer is the only maker of ammo loaded in aluminum cases I know of. Blazer also loads "Blazer Brass" ammo this is re loadable.

[NcongruNt]

Thanks mojo and oldcannon,

How do you tell a nickel from aluminum case?

Nickel has a silver color to it. Like a Nickel. They're actually brass cases that have been nickel plated.

[UpTheIrons]

How do you tell a nickel from aluminum case?

Also, nickel cases will make a bright "tink" sound when they hit concrete, just like brass. Aluminum cases make more of a dull "tonk" sound.

[jason237m]

I strongly disagree about not using case lube for pistol cases.

I use this for loading in my 650 with carbide dies.
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/116526 ... -case-lube

It speeds me up quite a bit and doesn't leave a mess.

[texasmusic]

Maybe I've never seen an aluminum case... Gold dots and Hornady HP ammo are the only silver colored ones I've been in contact with.. I'm guessing those are all nickel.

Jason does that lube need to be cleaned off prior to powder and prime?

[jason237m]

Jason does that lube need to be cleaned off prior to powder and prime?

Nope, it's very light and doesn't bother a thing. I would stay away from the heavier lubes though, they cause problems.

[OldCannon]

I strongly disagree about not using case lube for pistol cases.

Well, it's not _needed_, but yes, it can have some effect. Oddly though, because the case mouth is so large, you need to be a little more careful applying the lube so that you don't get too much on the inside. I don't lube cases myself (brass + carbide dies works just peachy), but I did it once just to see the difference. I didn't feel it justified the extra step, but I'm certainly not saying "never" do it.

[jason237m]

I fill a bucket with a couple hundred pieces of brass, blast it with a couple sprays of 1 shot and throw it in the brass feeder for my 650. It has served me well for many thousands of rounds. It's so light that it doesn't foul the cases.

[texasmusic]

Well guys I loaded 50 rounds today using some 230gr TMJ and 6 grains of Unique. Only bought primers and bullets for the 50 locally so I didn't get hit with Hazmat fees and didn't have to drop the serious cash for my first real order...

I'm on powdervalleyinc.com right now trying to search out some good deals and maybe dive into 9mm while I'm at it.

Will update soon if I have enough fingers left to type.

[texasmusic]

I'm also looking into the 1895 Nagant cartridge. A gun I have passed on due to high ammo prices. I'm researching the methods for this... seems to be complicated.