Anyone use Lee auto disk poeder measure?

[med]

I am trying to get it to dump 3.8 gr. Lee's chart says to use the hole for .32cc but using this setting i can't get my 3.8 dump. It appears to be very consistent.

I moved up to the next hole .34cc and still can't get my load. I set it to the next hole 37cc and now get my 3.8 gr. The chart says the powder i am using should throw 3.8@.32cc and i have to use a setting of .37cc which should throw 4.4gr.of the same powder.

I am using the safety scale that come with my press kit. Should i go with the scale reading?
Can the measure be off that much?
Is there some kind of reference weight i can use to confirm the scale is reading correctly?

Med too anal to have a bullet loaded yet!

[O6nop]

Run several test runs through the measure, a lot of times there's some static buildup and the powder sticks to the sides. If it's the first time you are using it, fill up the hopper and run all or most of it through once. I think I read somewhere this works. Sometimes I tap on the sides of the measure to make sure all the powder is dislodged. What powder are you using?

[med]

I am using accurate no.2 powder and have been thumping the side of the hopper. I see some balls sticking but i don't think it's enough to matter. I have run a lota powder through it but have been dumping it back into the hopper.

If i have faith in my scale it's not a problem as the measure is dumping consistently wrong.

It's just that i am using both scale and measure for the first time. Wish i could go out back and test a few rounds at a time rather than taking a trip to the range every time i want to test a load.
I'll try and run a hopper full through.

I noticed in a u-tube video someone had inserts and thumb screws holding the hopper on can this be bought as a package? The threads in the hopper don't look like they will last too long and the screws are hard to get a screwdriver on.

Thanks for your advice.
Med

[UpTheIrons]

I had the same problem with mine the first time out, too. I had to go up to the next hole to get 0.1 grains over my starting load, which was as close as I could get (HP-38 powder). It has been suggested elsewhere (thanks, AndyC!) that we Lee folks get the Adjustable Charge Bar, as it seems to be more accurate and easier to use. Everyone seems to have them but the brick-and-mortar stores:
http://www.natchezss.com/product.cfm?co ... 92&src=sim

I'll also suggest getting the Auto-disk Riser (which I have seen on the shelf) if you have monkey paws like me and are having fits getting into the parts to adjust everything on your turret.

Try this: get everything set up, throw 10 powder loads and dump them back in the hopper. Now, throw another 3 or 4 and weigh these on the scale. That should give you an idea of what the measure is really throwing. If you have the safety scale set up properly, then it is reading properly. I would trust it over the Auto-disk holes and chart.

Good luck!

[O6nop]

I have the riser on my setup, it just screws the whole hopper and assembly off, then I remove the tension spring with an old awl and replace the disk. I am seriously thinking about getting the charge bar, too.
I suppose you zeroed /calibrated your scale... put only the tray on, set it for "0" on all the counterweights (the ball weight and the slide bar) and balance it out to the center using that brass counterweight wheel.

[BobCat]

The chart depends on the bulk density of the powder being consistent lot-to-lot. As DubiousDan said, trust your scale. Use the hole that drops the closest to the weight you want, or get the adjustable charge bar. The chart is not necessarily reliable or even close.

There is a round hopper that is held on by two brass thumb nuts - the threads in the plastic do not get worked. It is in the Lee Pro Auto-Disk Update Kit 90377 $22.00 at the bottom of http://leeprecision.com/cgi/catalog/bro ... whan1.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I use my Lee disk powder measure on Dillon 450 presses. It is simple, reliable, meters the powders I load for handguns, and works fine.

[MoJo]

Trust your scale. Powder bushings and charge disks all throw light in my experience. I think this is engineered into them to protect those who don't have scales and rely on the charge charts.

Whenever I'm setting up any powder measure I throw 10 charges weigh them then average the charges to determine what charge I'm throwing.

[O6nop]

Ooops, sorry, what I was talking about was the Swivel adapter. Here's the description on their website
For fast and easy transfer between die sets. Screws into your die without rotating the measure. Allows precise positioning with firm clamping.

And I want to re-emphasize zeroing the scale. Moving it to a new location that isn't as level as the previous could affect it. Then, you can trust your scale.

[Edit to add last line]

[Fosforos]

As everyone else has said, trust the scale over the charts.
I was able to get the exact amount of powder I needed by putting a piece of tape inside one of the charge disk holes, made it throw the .1 or .2 grains less that I needed. Others have made a hole just a hair larger by boring it out with a drill bit.
For remedying static cling in the hopper, washing in soapy water and letting it dry without rinsing works well, but even easier is wiping in on the inside with a dryer sheet.

[med]

Getting a good response tonight.

I went with the scale this afternoon and loaded 30 rounds. I weighed every other load or so and will try shooting them before loading any more.
I was getting consistent throws with the scale all along .

It was confusing with all the conflicting load info from different sources and then i noticed Accurate had a different VMD cc/grains ratio (.102) listed.
The book i had and the data with the powder measure both were Lee and listed no.2 VMD as .0838. Thar Ya go

Guess i'll start keeping track of each powder i use when i find the hole that throws the load i want like someone suggested here.

In search of info i found an upgrade kit for the Powder measure. It has the thumb screws a new hopper and a wiper to seal the powder so it won't leak between the disk and the hopper. It also has the powder charge bar included in the kit.

I am real happy with the way the finished bullets look and specked out.
I set the seating die to touch on a factory bullet and every one was the exact same 1.157.

The chart for 9mm in my book says 1.169 is max overall length so they are .012 undersized like the factory loads.
I cycled them through all my guns and they felt smoother than factory. Could it be cause i made them ?

I'll probably be back looking for help when i get some brass for my 44's .

Thanks Y'all for the help.
Med

[CWOOD]

I, too, use the Pro Auto Disc measure and find it VERY consistent. It is not exactly in tune with the Lee Modern Reloading charts. That is fine. I have found which disc cavity throws the proper weight of the few powders I use (WIN WST or 231 and maybe later Autocomp).

One suggestion I will make which has helped me is to make index cards for each bullet weight you are reloading. On put a description of the caliber, bullet weight and style, OAL, and then list the various (if more than one) powders and different powder charges that you use. I also list the disc cavity size which actually throws the weight I want. This really saves a lot of time is setting up for each session without having to re-invent the wheel each time.

Another thing which I have found useful and time saving is to use a paint pen to mark the edges of each of the discs with the size of the corresponding cavity. This way, each time you throw a charge and the disc slides forward, the size of the cavity you are using slides forward to be exposed as you dump the powder. This is a comforting confirmation each time and it also makes it easier to change the discs correctly.

I hope you find this useful.