Zombie Armory
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Zombie Armory
http://www.zombiearmory.com/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
If you need a good laugh and some survival gear this is an OK site.
Top ten survival items
1. Primary Weapon [Swords, Machetes, Bludgeons (baseball bats, crow bars), etc.]
Anything that is deemed as a melee weapon should become your main weapon. If you are on the run after losing your fortification, a machete or sword would be ideal. A nice, clean sweep will remove a zombie or group of zombie’s heads, while a bludgeon with high impact will crush a zombie in one, forceful blow. Either item is easy to carry on your hip or back. A big advantage to a melee weapon is that you don't have to reload.
2. Secondary Weapon [.22 - .45 Pistols]
Your secondary weapon should only be used for groups of three or more zombies. Always be cautious. A good rule of thumb is that if you are within pistol range from a zombie, you should be fleeing, not fighting. A .22 pistol is recommended. .22 ammo is cheaper, weighs less, and is easier to carry than other calibers. The plus side of a low caliber pistol is that it has enough force to enter the skull of the undead but not enough force to exit, causing a pinball effect inside it’s skull.
3. Defensive Weapons [.22 - 12ga Rifles/Shotguns]
Defensive weapons, generally rifles and shotguns, should be used for defense only. They are not easily carried and would be much better suited for holding your fortification. You want to keep AT LEAST a scoped .22 rifle and a few hundred rounds of ammunition to make sure your safe haven remains just that: Safe.
4. Last Resort Weapons [Folding pocket knives, fixed blade knives, etc.]
A small, fixed-blade weapon should always be holstered to your side and/or ankle. Even though a close-encounter would be best avoided, if the situation were to arise, you need this item. If you were cornered by a group of undead, this last-resort weapon could be the difference between becoming the walking dead or continuing your fight for humanity.
5. Ammunition
It's as simple as this: a weapon without ammo is no weapon at all. Your budget determines which firearm and ammunition you own. Don’t be alarmed though; a .22 with proper shot placement would be more than adequate. If the funds are available and you want to guarantee overkill on that zombie, a .40 or .357, while slightly more expensive, would give you a little bit more comfort.
6. Food & Food Accessories
Max Brooks said it best: "No place is safe. Only safer." If you are in a rural area with dense population, you could easily fish for your own food. This is when fishing supplies become great survival items. But if you are in larger-sized city, you will want to be well-equipped with food. Canned goods are your best bet, as they keep for a long period of time. You will want to be prepared for at least 30 weeks, if not more; the zombie holocaust will likely not last longer than that. During that time, most of the world will become infected, rigor mortis will set in, and the bodies will begin to decay.
7. Communication [Two-Way Radios, Radios, etc.]
Communication is the key to sanity. You will want some sort of communication device, such as a two-way radio or AM/FM radio. You need to be able to listen for reports of other survivors, motivating you to regroup with others and overcome the depleting odds against the human race.
8. Lights [Lanterns, Flashlights, etc.]
Let's face facts: The power will go out eventually. It could be within 24 hours or it could take six months. Not having power isn't necessarily a bad thing, but an option for light could benefit you by allowing you to continue work on your fortification overnight. Be advised, however, that you do not want to attract any unwanted attention. Keep your windows tightly closed with blinds or blankets.
9. First Aid [First-Aid Kits, DVDs, etc.]
Along with the zombie horde comes the problem of not always having the best items to dress a wound. This is when first-aid kits come into play. Accidents will happen.
Survivors will be accidentally stabbed or shot. You need to have emergency medical items available at a moment’s notice. You will be beneficial to your group if you carry the skills necessary to use perform basic first-aid. We recommend that you study first aid and watch as many instructional DVDs as you can. When the inevitable happens, you will be at a heightened advantage over the other survivors.
10. Tools [Lighters, Pocket Tools, Other Necessities]
Tools are a necessity. You don’t have time to put off the “small” problems of your previous life. If something needs to be fixed, it needs to be fixed now. Pocket knives, lighters, and general tools (hammers, screwdrivers, Allen wrenches, etc.) will be useful. Preparation is the key to survival: Prepare, survive. It’s that simple.
If you need a good laugh and some survival gear this is an OK site.
Top ten survival items
1. Primary Weapon [Swords, Machetes, Bludgeons (baseball bats, crow bars), etc.]
Anything that is deemed as a melee weapon should become your main weapon. If you are on the run after losing your fortification, a machete or sword would be ideal. A nice, clean sweep will remove a zombie or group of zombie’s heads, while a bludgeon with high impact will crush a zombie in one, forceful blow. Either item is easy to carry on your hip or back. A big advantage to a melee weapon is that you don't have to reload.
2. Secondary Weapon [.22 - .45 Pistols]
Your secondary weapon should only be used for groups of three or more zombies. Always be cautious. A good rule of thumb is that if you are within pistol range from a zombie, you should be fleeing, not fighting. A .22 pistol is recommended. .22 ammo is cheaper, weighs less, and is easier to carry than other calibers. The plus side of a low caliber pistol is that it has enough force to enter the skull of the undead but not enough force to exit, causing a pinball effect inside it’s skull.
3. Defensive Weapons [.22 - 12ga Rifles/Shotguns]
Defensive weapons, generally rifles and shotguns, should be used for defense only. They are not easily carried and would be much better suited for holding your fortification. You want to keep AT LEAST a scoped .22 rifle and a few hundred rounds of ammunition to make sure your safe haven remains just that: Safe.
4. Last Resort Weapons [Folding pocket knives, fixed blade knives, etc.]
A small, fixed-blade weapon should always be holstered to your side and/or ankle. Even though a close-encounter would be best avoided, if the situation were to arise, you need this item. If you were cornered by a group of undead, this last-resort weapon could be the difference between becoming the walking dead or continuing your fight for humanity.
5. Ammunition
It's as simple as this: a weapon without ammo is no weapon at all. Your budget determines which firearm and ammunition you own. Don’t be alarmed though; a .22 with proper shot placement would be more than adequate. If the funds are available and you want to guarantee overkill on that zombie, a .40 or .357, while slightly more expensive, would give you a little bit more comfort.
6. Food & Food Accessories
Max Brooks said it best: "No place is safe. Only safer." If you are in a rural area with dense population, you could easily fish for your own food. This is when fishing supplies become great survival items. But if you are in larger-sized city, you will want to be well-equipped with food. Canned goods are your best bet, as they keep for a long period of time. You will want to be prepared for at least 30 weeks, if not more; the zombie holocaust will likely not last longer than that. During that time, most of the world will become infected, rigor mortis will set in, and the bodies will begin to decay.
7. Communication [Two-Way Radios, Radios, etc.]
Communication is the key to sanity. You will want some sort of communication device, such as a two-way radio or AM/FM radio. You need to be able to listen for reports of other survivors, motivating you to regroup with others and overcome the depleting odds against the human race.
8. Lights [Lanterns, Flashlights, etc.]
Let's face facts: The power will go out eventually. It could be within 24 hours or it could take six months. Not having power isn't necessarily a bad thing, but an option for light could benefit you by allowing you to continue work on your fortification overnight. Be advised, however, that you do not want to attract any unwanted attention. Keep your windows tightly closed with blinds or blankets.
9. First Aid [First-Aid Kits, DVDs, etc.]
Along with the zombie horde comes the problem of not always having the best items to dress a wound. This is when first-aid kits come into play. Accidents will happen.
Survivors will be accidentally stabbed or shot. You need to have emergency medical items available at a moment’s notice. You will be beneficial to your group if you carry the skills necessary to use perform basic first-aid. We recommend that you study first aid and watch as many instructional DVDs as you can. When the inevitable happens, you will be at a heightened advantage over the other survivors.
10. Tools [Lighters, Pocket Tools, Other Necessities]
Tools are a necessity. You don’t have time to put off the “small” problems of your previous life. If something needs to be fixed, it needs to be fixed now. Pocket knives, lighters, and general tools (hammers, screwdrivers, Allen wrenches, etc.) will be useful. Preparation is the key to survival: Prepare, survive. It’s that simple.
Personally, I’m interested in keeping other people from building Utopia, because the more you believe you can create heaven on earth the more likely you are to set up guillotines in the public square to hasten the process.--James Lileks
Re: Zombie Armory
"Ees gun! Ees not safe!"
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Re: Zombie Armory
I really want to buy a Two-Handed Apocalax for my primary weapon.
http://zombietools.net/tools/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://zombietools.net/tools/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
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Re: Zombie Armory
I disagree with the "best" choice for melee weapons.
Everyone knows that an AK-47 is a much better choice. Once its empty THEN it can be used as a very effective (and HOT) club to bash undead brains.
Everyone knows that an AK-47 is a much better choice. Once its empty THEN it can be used as a very effective (and HOT) club to bash undead brains.
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Re: Zombie Armory
Let me see if I understand this. A .22 caliber round, while not sufficient by most standards as a "man stopper" will drop a zombie in its tracks?
um, ok, since I guess zombies are already dead ... that makes sense? I dunno, my brother is kind of a zombie freak, I'll ask his advice is I ever need to fight off the undead.
um, ok, since I guess zombies are already dead ... that makes sense? I dunno, my brother is kind of a zombie freak, I'll ask his advice is I ever need to fight off the undead.
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Re: Zombie Armory
From what I can tell things like shotguns knock pieces off the zombies, and just make them madder.austinrealtor wrote:Let me see if I understand this. A .22 caliber round, while not sufficient by most standards as a "man stopper" will drop a zombie in its tracks?
um, ok, since I guess zombies are already dead ... that makes sense? I dunno, my brother is kind of a zombie freak, I'll ask his advice is I ever need to fight off the undead.
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Re: Zombie Armory
A .22 will bounce around inside the head and damage the brain stem, that's the part the actually keeps the Zombie alive.
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Re: Zombie Armory
So why not just obliterate the brain stem itself with a well-placed 12-gauge shotgun blast to the base of the skull?flb_78 wrote:A .22 will bounce around inside the head and damage the brain stem, that's the part the actually keeps the Zombie alive.
Oh wait, darn it, there I go again using logic in a fantasy-world discussion. Slap on the wrist self-administered.
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Re: Zombie Armory
because good 12 gauge buckshot shells are about .75 - 1.00 a piece. I can find enough change in my couch to buy 50rds of .22
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Re: Zombie Armory
so zombies are invading, the end of the world is near, and you're going to worry about the cost of ammunition?flb_78 wrote:because good 12 gauge buckshot shells are about .75 - 1.00 a piece. I can find enough change in my couch to buy 50rds of .22
If I could carry it, I think a good semi-auto .50 BMG would be a great anti-zombie weapon. Just watch the besieged town from atop a hill a mile away and pick off the undead one-by-one. Sure the rounds are like $5 each, but $5 per zombie is not too much price to pay to rid the world of such a scurge.
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Re: Zombie Armory
For all our Brady friends, may we agree this is a hoot and a holler, and should probably have been posted in the "Off Topic" forum?
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Re: Zombie Armory
I've already suggested that She Who Must Be Obeyed bring this up at the next church staff meeting. Is our church ZSA2009 compliant? (Zombie Survival Attack 2009).
As to shotguns vs. .22s. Understand, most zombie variants are slow and taken down with s hot to the brain. You are going to be bored. What better way to spend your time then organizing a nice shooting competition? invite the neighbors over, throw some burgers on the grill. Awards for most take downs, most difficult shot, getting a clown zombie, that sort of thing.
As to shotguns vs. .22s. Understand, most zombie variants are slow and taken down with s hot to the brain. You are going to be bored. What better way to spend your time then organizing a nice shooting competition? invite the neighbors over, throw some burgers on the grill. Awards for most take downs, most difficult shot, getting a clown zombie, that sort of thing.
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Re: Zombie Armory
The reason a .22 is preferable to a shotgun as an anti-zombie weapon is primarily ammunition weight.
Since the only way to bring down (Brooksian) zombies is to destroy the brain, all rounds capable of penetrating the skull are equivalent. As long as your chosen .22 round can penetrate the skull you don't gain any advantage by increasing you firepower to that of a shotgun, and you can carry far more rounds of .22lr than 12 gauge.
I do disagree that a melee weapon should be your primary weapon. Since zombieism is transmitted by bites you want to avoid close combat whenever possible. A long gun should be the primary weapon (an AR15 is ideal for this, with good long-range accuracy and relatively light ammunition), a pistol (probably a .22) the secondary weapon, and a melee weapon (preferably a tool you would already be carrying) as one of your last options.
Since the only way to bring down (Brooksian) zombies is to destroy the brain, all rounds capable of penetrating the skull are equivalent. As long as your chosen .22 round can penetrate the skull you don't gain any advantage by increasing you firepower to that of a shotgun, and you can carry far more rounds of .22lr than 12 gauge.
I do disagree that a melee weapon should be your primary weapon. Since zombieism is transmitted by bites you want to avoid close combat whenever possible. A long gun should be the primary weapon (an AR15 is ideal for this, with good long-range accuracy and relatively light ammunition), a pistol (probably a .22) the secondary weapon, and a melee weapon (preferably a tool you would already be carrying) as one of your last options.
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Re: Zombie Armory
I'm so very thankful for the truly expert Zombie killing knowledge you have all displayed in this thread. I have now seen the error of my ways, and will be going out tomorrow to buy 15,000 rounds of .22LR ammo and 600 Butler Creek 25-round banana clips for my Ruger 10/22. As for melee weapons, I've always found that chainsaws work best in video games - so I'm sure they would be the best choice for a zombie invasion.
and if that doesn't work, then I'll just have to pull out the one weapon I swore I would never use again ...
and wait for the cavalry to arrive ...
and if that doesn't work, then I'll just have to pull out the one weapon I swore I would never use again ...
and wait for the cavalry to arrive ...
Last edited by A-R on Tue May 19, 2009 10:03 pm, edited 1 time in total.