Wet GUN or not so wet? An offshoot of the Lube thread

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HighVelocity
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Wet GUN or not so wet? An offshoot of the Lube thread

#1

Post by HighVelocity »

Reading the gun lube thread got me to thinking about the way I lubricate different pistols.
I have a couple of 1911's that NEED to be darn near dripping to get through 500+ rounds without re-oiling the rails before malfunctions start. Many many different products have been tried.
Yet others will go through a couple thousand rounds in a weekend and never need more oil.
My Sigs like very little oil and my Glocks require just a drop here and there.

What have others experienced regarding this issue?

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#2

Post by isa268 »

I lube with Miltec grease and FP-10 and leave it relatively dry, its not dripping wet but the rails have a coat of Miltec grease and FP-10 on them and can go through 200rds at the range with no malfunctions.

I also wipe the whole thing down with a silicon rag, rails and all, so that might help. I’m thinking of switching to Kroil w/ silicon, which might do all that in one step. That Kroil looks like some good stuff.
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#3

Post by jbirds1210 »

I agree that the appetite for oil differs with the style of firearm. My 1911 gets really dry, really fast. I have similar experience with my Sigs...they do need to be oiled regularly, but not in excess. Glocks are just Glocks....take it out and hose it off when you are through (figure of speech). Let us not forget that revolvers appreciate a little oil from time to time. A drop on the back of the cylinder can save you from a sluggish revolver!
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#4

Post by gigag04 »

isa268 wrote: I also wipe the whole thing down with a silicon rag, rails and all, so that might help.
I do this too...I love the "sheen" that the gun gets after using this rag.
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#5

Post by HOSSISFREE »

Well, I put my two cents in on the gun lubes thread, and I suppose it really belongs here...my quote:

I must agree with whomever it was that mentioned the amount of lubricant that you use being important. Having qualified expert on the M16 and M60 every time, while in the Army, I can tell you that the amount you use makes a huge difference. The M16 simply needed a thin coat to work properly without malfunctions, while the M60 didn't work right unless it was slinging oil in your face.

Bottom line.....Trial and error for your paticular weapon. They all have a personality. Some are ficle about oil and ammo, some will work with anything.

May not be much help, but totally true to my knowledge.
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#6

Post by Chris »

just a spoon full of militec helps the gun cycle rounds. :)

i use nothing but militec. i shipped my cousin some in iraq. he quit having jamming problems with his pistol. traditional gun oil collects dust. militec can be wiped clean, once it's applied properly.

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#7

Post by overboost_xd »

I'd like to recomend a product as well. Made right out of Houston, Texas

I'm sure a lot of you have heard of Blue Wonder, The Blue Wonder Disotec XFR is some amazing stuff. It's a dry lube that does not attract lint or dust. Stuff works great on my XD 45 and my friends Sigma 99. Armadillo is great stuff also but there's a certain way to put it on besides the directions on the container that's 10x easier.

http://bluewonder.us/DisotecXFR.html



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#8

Post by John »

overboost_xd wrote:I'd like to recomend a product as well. Made right out of Houston, Texas
I'm sure a lot of you have heard of Blue Wonder, The Blue Wonder Disotec XFR is some amazing stuff. It's a dry lube that does not attract lint or dust. Stuff works great on my XD 45 and my friends Sigma 99. Armadillo is great stuff also but there's a certain way to put it on besides the directions on the container that's 10x easier.

http://bluewonder.us/DisotecXFR.html


I've never heard of them, but after looking at their web site, the Blue Wonder bore cleaner looks great. I may have to give that a try. They are claiming a mirror clean bore without solvents. Looks interesting.
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#9

Post by overboost_xd »

Great stuff as well just dont forget the important section of the site.

Dont forget to use a light coat of lube after using the bore cleaner, otherwise rusting may occur.

"Important: After using Blue Wonderâ„¢ Gun Cleaner, it is imperative to follow with a light coat of quality gun oil (Blue Wonderâ„¢ Distotec XFR) as the surface treated will be chemically clean and will rust without protection."
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#10

Post by Kalrog »

I haven't used the Disotec yet, but I have used most of their other products and they have all been outstanding. The Armadillo was a bit tricky to apply though...

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#11

Post by overboost_xd »

Kalrog wrote:I haven't used the Disotec yet, but I have used most of their other products and they have all been outstanding. The Armadillo was a bit tricky to apply though...
Like I said there's an easier way to apply it then the directions say to.

Field strip your pistol, (making sure it's unloaded of course) and then with the slide removed, remove the barrel and guide rod and spring.

Take a hair dryer with the container of armadillo open heat it up with the hair dryer until it melts like a wax. At the same time go back and forth between your slide and the armadillo to keep them both hot and so the armadillo doesnt go back to a hard state. (It's easier with two people one holding the hair dryer, and the other working on the other stuff, but not necessary) (Armadillo is flammable in it's liquid state, Bob Price is a great guy and I would listen to him as he is a big part in the company)

Take a cotton swab cutip (Or however you spell it, :shock: ) and dip it in the armadillo and put it on the slide, make sure you get everything covered, it may look a little funny but it's okay. Make sure you get the whole slide (You can probably do the underside of the slide as well, I dont myself but that doesn't mean you cant. It's a dry lubricant made out of polymer basically) I usually put it on the slide rails as well. Get it in all the engravings on the slide too.

Let it cool off for about 5 mins, then heat it up again until it turns soft and buff it off with an old cotton t shirt. For the places you can't get to with the shirt (Like engravings where the serial number and all the other stuff is) I use a soft bristle tooth brush and toothpicks. A can of compressed air helps as well. Once it's done buffing off you can definitely see the difference. I normally use the disotec afterwards, and put a little bit here and there in the normal places. (Slide rails, trigger mechanism on the frame, firing pin, basically anything where metal touches metal.)

That's how I usually do it but everyone has their own different ways.
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#12

Post by John »

overboost_xd, is there any reason to apply Armadillo to a slide that has a hard teflon coating like Beretta's Bruniton finish? What about an anodized aluminum frame? Just curious.

John
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#13

Post by overboost_xd »

Sure, Armadillo is waterproof. If anything when it get's wet the water will bead right off.

Also after a coat of armadillo, you can have the sweatiest hands in the world and when you touch that slide you will see no fingerprints. The stuff is so good, that when I bought a pack of the armadillo and disotec, I went back and wiped the store clean out of the rest of it. :grin:

You can even add armadillo to some of your magazines. :cool:
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