Getting Started Reloading with Limited Space

[cmgee67]

I would like to get started on reloading. I’m not so much looking at it as a hobby but more of a skill. I’m sure I’ll enjoy it and it would become a hobby. I don’t shoot enough to really warrant it but, times like these make me want to save all my empty brass and have the components and the know how to be able to put the empties back to cartridges. One draw back is I don’t have a lot of room. My table is a 24”x48” table. I don’t have a large budget so I know that I cannot afford a big progressive press. I shoot 9, 45, 223, 45-70, and 6.5 Grendel for the most part. With a other calibers from time to time. I’ve been looking at the Lee single stage. It would allow me to use my table that I have. I don’t know what powder, bullets, primers, ect to use. I know a lot of that is personal preference from what I have seen but, I do know that there are some good standards. What tools do I need to get started and what components? I’m sure this is the worst time to start reloading but better late than never I suppose.

[mrvmax]

I never cared for my Lee press so I sold it. They work but I just didn't like it. I have an old RCBS Rock chucker and Redding T7 turret. I mainly shoot rifle so it works well for me. I don't shoot matches so I have no need for a Dillon (although I still want one).

I'd look for a used press to save money. You'll need to decide on what case prep and other accessories you want. For dies I prefer Redding but have RCBS, Lyman and Hornady. I do not like Hornady dies but that's just personal preference.

A vibratory tumbler will be the cheapest for prep. Youll need a case Trimmer for the Grendel, Lee is the least expensive I know of but I've seen some good prices on used RCBS and Lyman.

I hand prime but you can prime with your press to lower costs. You'll need some type of scale or powder measuring device too.

Finding primers and powders will be challenging right now. Pick up a loading manual but you could save money by using the online data from Hodgson, Barnes etc. Gordon's Reloading tool is free and can be useful but I'd stick to published load data until you get some experience and verify with GRT.

I like to buy the L E Wilson case length gauges for rifle rounds to check my loaded ammo. Add some plastic ammo boxes for your loaded ammo.

I'm sure you'll get plenty of more suggestions.

[strogg]

Let me add my $0.02.

You'll probably want a lot of bins too. I have a whole bunch of those plastic shoebox bins from Walmart that I use to store brass that are going through the reloading process so I don't mix them up.

For presses, a single stage RCBS should fit the bill. RCBS parts are incredibly good bang for the buck.

Powder scales are hit and miss. Mostly miss. But you can make a cheap powder scale work for you in the long run if you just want to churn out ammo. You'll have to measure it several times and wait for the numbers to stop drifting. You'll eventually get a good, consistent measurement. It's a tad annoying, but considering you'll only do it once every time you adjust the powder measure, it's not the worst thing to use a cheap scale. I personally use a $20 Lyman digital scale. It works well enough. If you're thinking of getting into precision shooting and continually testing loads, then getting a much better scale will be worth the money.

As for dies, I mostly use Redding, RCBS, and Lee. Redding is great for precision. RCBS, again, is good bang for buck. The Lee dies are just cheap and cheerful. Keep in mind that RCBS dies typically have their nuts lock with a brass set screw. It can get knocked loose or stripped if you're not careful. I like to replace them with steel set screws. It's typically a set and forget anyway. Lee dies have looser tolerances. I notice that on mine, there's a lot of movement on the seater die, which leads to less-than-consistent OALs. It will also start backing out a bit over time. For those loads you don't care for precision, it's not a big deal. But for consistency, I'd go for RCBS or better. Also, Lee dies use rubber rings as a friction lock for the nuts. They will definitely move around. I put index marks on mine to make sure they are always in the same position. Lastly, their expander dies tend to catch on the brass. It's mildly annoying. But it's a lot harder to over expand the brass with those compared to RCBS. Overall, I don't really recommend Lee, but they function. And they will last. It's not worth the money for me to replace the ones I got already.

There's a thread on lube. I suggest you check that out. Same for brass cleaning.

Also, if you are getting into this to save money, it's probably not going to happen. For the most part it won't make economic sense to hand load unless you're shooting odd/expensive calibers or making a career out of it.

[flowrie]

I have limited space too, so I bolted the press to a thick piece of oak, them clamp to the table. It is solid. Can always unclamped and store it. Also, LE Wilson case gauges are great for rifle, I use Hornandy case gauges for pistol. I like Lee dies, although I have other brands too.

[The Annoyed Man]

Also, if you are getting into this to save money, it's probably not going to happen. For the most part it won't make economic sense to hand load unless you're shooting odd/expensive calibers or making a career out of it.

When I got started, BEFORE I spent any money on equipment, I was counseled by an experienced reloader to buy the current Lyman manual, and read the first chapter or two to determine WHAT equipment I thought I might need. The result: instead of spending about $350 on a prepackaged RCBS reloading kit, I spent about $1,300 on an a la carte setup....still based on an RCBS Rock-chucker single stage press.

Why? Because I was primarily interested in building precision loads for .308, and only secondarily for reloading 5.56, .45 ACP, 9mm, and a few revolver calibers. That $1,300 included the cost of dies in several calibers, as well as new .308 brass, a few 1000 primers of different types, some Varget powder, and some SMKs in .308 & .223.

Not counting the cost of the equipment, I reduced the cost/round for a match grade .308 cartridge pushing a 175 grain SMK from a (then) $1.50-$1.75/round to 78¢/round using new brass, and 45¢/round using once-fired brass. THAT SAID....to date, I’ve reloaded almost exclusively for .308. I’ve loaded a small number of match loads in .223, using new brass only, and ZERO cartridges in any other caliber for which I have the dies. Counting ALL the cartridges I’ve ever reloaded, I’ve never come even close to paying for the cost of the equipment.

So....the question kind of becomes, did I make a bad choice in spending $1,300 on reloading equipment that hasn’t paid for itself yet? FOR ME, the answer is No, and here’s why:

1. I’ve spent WAY more than that on a single rifle/optic combination....more than once....none of which have ever paid for themselves. If "paid for itself" were the sole determinant, I’d have picked another hobby.

2. Not counting the cost of the equipment, I was able to, without too much effort, develop a load for my .308 bolt guns that consistently out-performs in those rifles any match-grade ammo made by either Federal or Black Hills, regularly producing 3/8” groups at 100 yards when I do my part.

3. I’ve been entertained and intellectually stimulated, and enjoyed getting involved in the arcana of reloading. It appeals to the scientific mind in me. I can only compare it (maybe) to people who get into the weeds over baseball statistics or golf course layouts.

4. Part of that $1,300 included some duplication. For instance, I own both a RCBS Chargemaster Combo powder measure/scale ($469.99 current MSRP, I don’t remember what I paid for mine....it was 7 or 8 years ago, but I’m sure it was less than that) and a more traditional RCBS balance-beam scale plus a Uniflow powder measure. The latter combo will still work in a grid-down scenario, but the former is much more precise while speeding up the process a bit.

5. Part of why I bought the equipment to begin with was to ensure my continued access to ammunition if the commercial sale of ammo were ever banned or severely restricted by gov’t fiat, or if it simply became unavailable due to a complete collapse of the economy. It is therefore an investment in my personal security. To that end, I have stockpiled a LOT (for me) of spent brass in "my" calibers, rifle powder and some pistol powder, some small and large rifle primers, some small and large pistol primers, some .308 and .223 bullets in assorted weights, and about 250 lbs of lead ingots (250 lbs = 1.75 million grains). I have a bullet mold for .45 ACP, but still need them for 9mm, .44, .38/.357, and .308. (I’m not sure that cast bullets for a .223/5.56 rifle would be a good idea because of the velocities involved, but a .308 cast bullet could be used in any of my .308 caliber rifles, to include bolt guns, lever actions, an M1 Carbine, or even a SCAR 17.) I still need to buy more jacketed bullets in various calibers whenever the market loosens up some. But the short version is: becoming a reloader is part of my prepping plan.

So....my advice:

1. Clearly define your reasons for wanting to get into it.

2. Buy the most current Lyman manual first, and read the first couple of chapters before you spend any money on gear and cartridge components.

3. If after doing that, you think you’ll still be best served by buying an inexpensive pre-assembled kit from RCBS or some other manufacturer, then that’s great. If you think you’ll be better served by spending more, that’s great too. EITHER WAY, you’ll still be already in possession of one of the finest reloading manuals ever published.

That’s my 2¢.

[BSHII]

I reload those exact same calibers (plus 38/357).

I also have limited space, but was able to build a small bench and put it in my gun closet. Before that, I rigged up a mount by bolting the press to a 2x6 that I could mount with bolts and blocks to a folding work bench, and that worked reasonably well.

I have a Lee turret press, which makes for reasonably quick handgun loading, but if I was buying a new press, I might go a different direction. The Lee turret has a lot of slop, which doesn't inspire a lot of confidence in seating and crimping. Bullet seating depth actually ends up pretty consistent, but I've had issues from time to time ruining cases while roll-crimping .357 and .45-70. At some point I may splurge for a Dillon, although space will probably become an issue then.

For dies, I've gone with RCBS and Hornady as the best for the money, although both have gotten a little more expensive lately, it seems. I haven't been the biggest fan of Lee dies--my first set had some quality control problems, and I don't like the o-ring lock nut.

Components are a bit tough to find right now. The academy near me is pretty much cleaned out, and bullets (particularly 9mm) can be tough to find even online. It's a bit tough to buy online when you are starting out and experimenting, because the incentive is to buy bulk because of the HazMat fee.

[Grayling813]

I started reloading last year. Bought a bunch of Lee stuff from a guy off Craigslist who was moving.
I setup in my home office with limited room. Use an old computer desk as my flat surface and a Lee stand for the work. It’s nestled between bookshelves and the desk.

[cmgee67]

Thank you all for the suggestions. You have given me a lot to look at and decide on. I appreciate it!

[LTUME1978]

Additional information to muddy the water. I started reloading for a 357 magnum in 1974 with the Lee kit that requires the use of a plastic hammer to drive the brass in and out of the dies (no press) and uses a powder scoop rather than weighing each charge on a scale. I was in college and broke and this kit cost me $10.00. I also needed a lube pad and lube as the cases had to be lubed to drive them in the die. This is what the gunsmith/gun store owner recommended to see if I really wanted to get into reloading. He also recommended the Lyman Reloading manual. It was slow and noisy but made good shooting ammo. I still have that kit but have not used it since a few months after buying it. I liked reloading and got a RCBS Jr. press and dies as soon as I could afford it. I used the Lee powder scoop for a long time because it worked well. I stopped reloading a few years after getting out of college and started again after Obama got elected.

At that time, all I could find was Lee dies and turret press for equipment so I bought it. I have loaded a lot of ammo on both their turret press and single stage press. The rifle ammo for my 6.5 Creedmoor will shoot under 1/4 MOA out of my Savage Model 12 Long Range Precision. I was curious about how Lee dies stacked up against other brands as I heard that Lee dies (and equipment) was junk so I bought some Hornady dies in 45 ACP and loaded ammo with both the Lee and Hornady. Testing showed no difference in group sizes. I went to Dillon 650's 5 years ago when I got a promotion (more money coming it but much less free time to load ammo). I can tell no difference in the accuracy of the ammo loaded on the Dillon vs the Lee press and either the Lee or Hornady dies in either 9mm or 45 ACP. The Dillon is MUCH faster but requires a lot more attention when loading as there are so many things going on at one time. Loading on the Lee equipment was very therapeutic when I had the time (turn on the radio and pull the lever, very relaxing). I tried going back to loading pistol ammo on the Lee recently (just for fun) and, while more relaxing, is to slow once one gets used to loading on a Dillon progressive machine. I still use the Lee to load pistol ammo that I don't shoot often (38 special, 357, 380.).

You don't have to have a scale when you first start. The Lee Powder scoop worked well, just would not recommend them for maximum loads. I still use them when loading stick powders to get the load up close to what I want then trickle in the last little bit to get to the final weight.

Like others said, get the Lyman Reloading Manual, read, and then have fun.