Quality Range Ammo .223/.556 for AR15

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Bitter Clinger
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Re: Quality Range Ammo .223/.556 for AR15

#31

Post by Bitter Clinger »

cyphertext wrote:
Bitter Clinger wrote:
cyphertext wrote:
Bitter Clinger wrote:
cyphertext wrote:
Bitter Clinger wrote:
cyphertext wrote:
The Annoyed Man wrote:I would amend the above to make sure to only buy brass-cased ammo. I know that plenty of people shoot the steel-cased varnished stuff, but the .223/5.56 case doesn't have enough taper to use that kind of ammo reliably. I've seen WAY too many fired steel cases stuck in AR barrels that wouldn't extract for love or money......some times so badly that running a rod down the barrel and trying to tap the case out won't remove it. Then you need a gunsmith with a chamber reamer. Brass cases OTH have natural lubricity and are very good at extracting cleanly.

Steel cased ammo is fine for AK pattern rifles because the case has a pronounced taper and extracts easily.
I'm going to respectfully disagree... while this was true in the past, steel cased ammo today is no longer covered in lacquer. Also, back when folks would get steel cases stuck in the chamber, most were shooting 20" rifles. With a carbine length gas system, and the higher pressures involved, reliable extraction can be achieved using steel cased ammo. Add in the O-ring enhanced extractor and I doubt you will have any issues.

And remember, not all steel cased ammo is created equally... there is a big difference between Tula and Hornady Steel Match, and a price difference that matches as well.
We have also found that the Russian steel cased ammo does not use the more costly copper jacketed lead bullets. The bullets appear to be copper plated only and the bullet itself appears to have iron mixed in - if you check you will find that the bullets are magnetic. The use of these rounds will lead to early barrel replacement.
I saw that report from Lucky Gunner... but I don't shoot at the same rate that they do... and have seen other reports that suggest a different theory on the barrel wear, that it is actually the propellant and not the bi-metal jacket that wears the barrel. But in either case, one can shoot that stuff and replace a barrel with the savings over brass and still come out ahead.
Go ahead and strip your rifling out prematurely, not my problem.
The barrel on an AR is consumable and easily replaced. When you can shoot steel cased ammo and have money from the savings to replace the barrel and still be ahead... well, I don't see that as a problem.

Maybe this will help...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P5ZB3UfG960
I don't need YouTube, I prefer real life experience. But thanks anyway, if it makes you feel better then I'm satisfied.
Whatever...
Image
Unfortunately, its not just all about the cost. Some shooters care about other parameters, such as reliability and accuracy.

Keep running steel as long as you know how to find cover. Here are the reliability results (excerpts) from that same study:
Federal: 10,000 rounds, 0 malfunctions.
Brown Bear: 10,000 rounds, 9 malfunctions (5 stuck cases, 1 magazine-related failure to feed, 3 failures to fully cycle)
Wolf: 10,000 rounds, 15 malfunctions (stuck cases)
Tula: DNF (6,000 rounds in alternate carbine, 3 malfunctions)

The carbine firing Tula had a case stuck in the chamber after 189 rounds which proved exceptionally difficult to clear, even with the use of a steel cleaning rod after the rifle had cooled. Over the next three hundred rounds, 24 malfunctions – stuck cases and failures to fully cycle, or “short stroking” – were encountered. At this time, the Tula carbine was removed from the testing, as the problems were causing significant delays.

A decision was made to fire the remainder of the Tula ammunition through other carbines. Approximately 300 rounds were fired through an HK416 (no malfunctions), 1,000 through a Spike’s Tactical carbine (3 malfunctions), and 6,000 through a Spike’s Tactical midlength without any cleaning (3 malfunctions). All malfunctions with the other carbines were stuck cases or failures to eject.

...A decision was made to fire the remainder of the Tula ammunition through other carbines. Approximately 300 rounds were fired through an HK416 (no malfunctions), 1,000 through a Spike’s Tactical carbine (3 malfunctions), and 6,000 through a Spike’s Tactical midlength without any cleaning (3 malfunctions). All malfunctions with the other carbines were stuck cases or failures to eject.

At the 5,000 round mark, the bolt carriers, upper receivers, and barrels were cleaned. After observation of high speed video showed inconsistent cycling, action springs ($3) were replaced, as were extractor springs ($6.99) and gas rings ($2.19).

The second half of the test started off with several malfunctions with the Brown Bear carbine – at 5,200 and 5,250 rounds, short stroking malfunctions were encountered. High speed video showed that the bolt was barely coming back far enough to pick up the next round, and occasionally not even far enough to eject the spent case. Additional lubrication did not prevent the second malfunction.

A detailed physical examination revealed previously unnoticed carbon buildup in the gas key and gas tube which had almost completely occluded those components. The other firearms were inspected, and none exhibited carbon buildup which was even remotely close to that of the Brown Bear carbine. Cleaning of these components in the field proved difficult to impossible, and it was decided to set them aside in order to examine the phenomenon.

The gas tube and bolt carrier of the Brown Bear rifle were replaced with identical components, after which firing resumed without incident. No malfunctions occurred until 7,500 rounds, when five stuck cases were encountered between 7,500 and 8,200 rounds. From 7,500 rounds on, a number of cases with distended and/or split necks were observed.

But in this test, we saw three times as many failures to extract with the polymer coated Wolf brand ammo (15 extraction failures) than with the lacquer coated Brown Bear ammo (5 extraction failures). Although the polymer coated Tula ammunition was fired in different rifles, the rate of extraction failures in those rifles was lower than that of Wolf.
Image

And what about accuracy? Or doesn't that matter?

Image
While the carbine firing Federal ammunition maintained acceptable accuracy up to and including the 10,000 round mark, the Brown Bear and Wolf carbines exhibited significant accuracy loss by the 6,000 round mark. It is quite possible that this first started occurring earlier than 6,000 rounds, because groups at 4,000 were well within standards of 5MOA or less, while some shots at 6,000 “keyholed,” or impacted the target sideways.

As indicated by accuracy testing, the steel cased/bimetal jacketed ammunition caused accelerated wear to the inside of their respective bores. While the barrel of the Federal carbine had plenty of life left, even after 10,000 rounds at extremely high rates of fire, the Wolf and Brown Bear barrels were subjected to the same rates of fire and were completely “shot out” by 6,000 rounds.

At the end of the test, the chrome lining of the Wolf and Brown Bear barrels was almost gone from the throat forward, and the barrels had effectively become smoothbores, with the rifling near the muzzles acting only as a mild suggestion on the projectiles. A throat erosion gauge could be dropped into the bore from the muzzle end with absolutely no resistance.
I would expect that a carbine shooting brass cased, copper jacketed lead to last at least ~20,000 rounds before needing re-barreling.

Anyway, like I said, not my problem. :fire
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"Fast is fine, but accuracy is everything." - Wyatt Earp
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cyphertext
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Re: Quality Range Ammo .223/.556 for AR15

#32

Post by cyphertext »

Bitter Clinger wrote:
Unfortunately, its not just all about the cost. Some shooters care about other parameters, such as reliability and accuracy.

Keep running steel as long as you know how to find cover. Here are the reliability results (excerpts) from that same study:



I would expect that a carbine shooting brass cased, copper jacketed lead to last at least ~20,000 rounds before needing re-barreling.

Anyway, like I said, not my problem. :fire
15 failures out of 10,000... for half the cost... doesn't seem to be that bad to me. As far as "finding cover", this is for range use, not defensive use. And accuracy... If it stays within 4-5 MOA, good enough for general range use. I'm not trying to make one ragged hole with a red dot equipped AR-15. Let's not forget that these guys were hammering through the rounds which is going to accelerate wear... I bet that the average shooter will get more than 6,000 rounds out of the barrel shooting the cheap stuff.

And again, not all steel is equal... big difference between Tula and Hornady! Also, you might expect your barrel to last that long on brass cased ammo, but a person who shoots a lot and will actually hit that 20,000 round mark can do it more economically by shooting steel and replacing the barrel when needed!
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Re: Quality Range Ammo .223/.556 for AR15

#33

Post by Bitter Clinger »

AndyC wrote:Everyone has different needs, requirements and things with which they will or won't put up. Let's not be haters.
Haters is kinda harsh. I was thinking more like "truculent"...
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Re: Quality Range Ammo .223/.556 for AR15

#34

Post by DLuke00 »

Hey Cyphertext, my range does not allow steel. As much as I'm looking for cost effective ammo, I will not sacrifice accuracy and reliability for price! I am looking for accurate, quality and cost efficient ammo. I'm starting to teach my wife the workings of the AR. She hasn't shot yet and is a little intimidated of the rifle. I know once she passes a few rounds through, the uneasy feelings will pass! I really appreciate your and other views on this subject. Thank y'all!
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Re: Quality Range Ammo .223/.556 for AR15

#35

Post by The Annoyed Man »

DLuke00 wrote:Hey Cyphertext, my range does not allow steel. As much as I'm looking for cost effective ammo, I will not sacrifice accuracy and reliability for price! I am looking for accurate, quality and cost efficient ammo. I'm starting to teach my wife the workings of the AR. She hasn't shot yet and is a little intimidated of the rifle. I know once she passes a few rounds through, the uneasy feelings will pass! I really appreciate your and other views on this subject. Thank y'all!
In that case, you can buy remanufactured, US made brass cased, copper jacketed 55 grain FMJ for pretty cheap from any of a dozen different online outlets - at considerable savings.

Without being a "hater", I think the following is objectively accurate ......

If you:
  1. are very familiar with the AR platform and do not mind replacing major components like barrels at regular intervals, and
  2. you shoot thousands and thousands of rounds per year, and
  3. you are going to be a stickler for regular cleaning, and
  4. you are knowledgeable enough to keep your eye peeled for signs of wear/damage on minor consumables like extractors, extractor springs, cam pins, bolt gas rings, and bolt lugs,
....then it is fine to shoot as much of the cheap Russian import steel-cased ammo as you please. (CAVEAT: I know that Hornady manufactures high quality ammo, and I've used their brass-cased products for years, I do not have enough knowledge about their steel-cased ammo to offer an informed opinion.)

However, what we have here in the OP is a self-admitted complete newcomer to the AR world who is asking about "good quality range ammo" (quoting from his thread title). Being perfectly objective about it, ammo that tears up the rifle, dirties it excessively, has a higher rate of malfunction, and is only 4 MOA ammo from a presumably 2 MOA accurate AR, is not "quality range ammo", nor is it a good choice for the entry level shooter. When you're shooting 4 MOA ammo out of a rifle that ought not exceed 2 MOA, you cannot even reliably zero the rifle for good ammo. I would advise that newcomer to the AR world to spend a little more on better quality ammo until he at least has his rifle properly zeroed, and has become familiar with its functions and its inherent accuracy. Then if he so pleases, he can buy steel cased Russian import ammo in volume and use all he wants of it for plinking.

That said, keep in mind that 4 MOA at 100 yards is a 4" group. At 200 yards, it's an 8" group. At 400 yards, it's a 16" group. Etc., etc., etc. For a weapon that ought to have what I would call "combat accuracy" out to around 450-500 yards (assuming a carbine length barrel), that amounts to an 18"-20" group.......at which point, whomever/whatever you're shooting at has about 50/50 odds of being able to walk around upright safely without too much worry of being hit. It's too inaccurate to zero for that ammo if you prefer to use it, because of load inconsistency from cartridge to cartridge. And you can't switch back to high quality ammo mid-stream, so to speak, to regain accuracy because your zero will be worthless until you re zero for the better ammo. And the reverse is also true, that if you zero for the better ammo, and plink with the cheap ammo, then your zero is worthless for the cheap ammo. Again, I state all of this with the caveat that I have no experience with the Hornady steel-cased ammo, so it may be that none of the above applies to the Hornady. You'll have to test it to find out.

My advice to the newcomer who is tempted to use cheap Russian ammo is this: buy some good quality 55 grain ammo, zero your rifle for that, leave your zero alone after that and just figure out what the Kentucky windage and elevation hold offs ought to be for the cheap stuff, don't expect too much in the consistency of accuracy department, and just enjoy hearing your rifle go bang and hitting the target once in a while. That way you have an accuracy baseline that you can actually depend on. If you're using the rifle for self/home defense, keep the magazines charged with the ammo that matches your zero. The difference in cost between a 30 round mag full of Federal 55 grain and a 30 round mag full of Tula 55 grain is probably less than $5-$6, which is negligeable if your life is on the line.

For my own part, of my ARs, the barrel with the highest round count now sits installed in my wife's carbine and almost never gets shot anymore. It's a 1:9 twist Gov't profile carbine length barrel from ER Shaw. It probably didn't cost more than about $150 to $175 when I bought it brand new (it's so long ago that I don't remember the original cost) back in 2007 or 2008. That barrel probably doesn't have more than about 2,500 to 3,000 rounds through it. As I don't compete in any kind of matches, I just don't shoot that many rounds each year. I shoot frequently, but I have a lot of guns, and I don't shoot 100s of rounds each time I shoot each gun. So the round counts go up slowly. So in the end, I still don't spend LOTS of money on ammo when I'm at the range. And by buying it 1000 rounds at a time, it is very affordable, and I can afford better, more accurate ammo that way, that doesn't tear up my rifle, than buying the cheap import stuff.

To each his own, and I've tried to be objective here, but I guess my point is that if you're not a "range rat" who is always at the range shooting large volumes of ammo....which I am not.....then it is hard for me to use cost differential of the import ammo, barrel wear included in that differential, as a criterion, because I get MORE satisfaction out of shooting accurately at whatever distance I'm shooting at, than I get satisfaction out of the pennies saved per round fired. If it were some cheap AR I bought at Academy for $499, I would probably care less about that aspect of it; but all of my ARs were built by me (and my son), and the parts were carefully chosen for their intended purposes......especially the expensive match grade barrels I bought for some of them. The thought of burning out a $250 Rainier Select 5R Stainless sub-MOA match barrel by shooting a bunch of crap ammo through it just gives me the fantods.

OTH, if you're trying to do all of this on a very tight budget, then buy the cheap stuff. Just know that you're going to have to pay more attention to maintenance and replacement of "consumable" parts - regardless of how much you have invested in the initial firearm - and also know that you will not get your best accuracy potential out of the cheap stuff.

There is apparently an exception to the above which I read of recently, but it involved a Gun-Tests magazine article (may require a subscription to read the whole thing) comparing new-manufactured reproduction M1 Carbines from Inland and Auto-Ordnance in which some steel cased Tula 110 grain ammo compared favorably with offerings from IWI, Aguila, and Hornady. But the pressures and velocities are much lower for an M1 Carbine than they are for an AR15, so the stresses to the barrel are going to be lower.

DLuke00, everything that BOTH Bitter Clinger and cyphertext said is true........FOR THEM. I hope that what I've written above will help you to make the decision that works best FOR YOU.
“Hard times create strong men. Strong men create good times. Good times create weak men. And, weak men create hard times.”

― G. Michael Hopf, "Those Who Remain"

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Re: Quality Range Ammo .223/.556 for AR15

#36

Post by DLuke00 »

Bitter Clinger and a few others, I believe yall shared a ton of info regarding quality vs cheap ammo to my help answer my question. My mind was pretty much set when I posed my question about ammo. Your response, along with several others reinforced what i was thinking! I like quality ammo and once sighted in, which now I'm very close to
FYIwith the Hornady 55 gr FMJ. I will not stray away from what works! Once I'm sighted in with a particular round then that's my round! My question was more about shooting day to day. I do NOT want to be concerned with unnecessary wear/damage to my AR. The few cents per round for quality ammo is well worth the cents to ensure accuracy from the initial sighting in versus a "little" extra money in the pocket later! I've always been a Hornady fan so at this point, that is my go to round unless y'all have other suggestions! Thank you ALL for your responses. I'm not a range rat by any means! I just like to shoot! I'm new to the AR arena but do know how to shoot. I'm still learning all the ins and outs about my AR but will say that there are some knowledgeable folks here, which I really appreciate! Keep your opinions coming and I WILL process each on!!

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Re: Quality Range Ammo .223/.556 for AR15

#37

Post by DLuke00 »

Thank you folks for your advice!!
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Re: Quality Range Ammo .223/.556 for AR15

#38

Post by Bitter Clinger »

DLuke00 wrote:Thank you folks for your advice!!
If you are located in the DFW area, come on out and join us for a full day of basic tactical carbine on April 23rd.

http://txconcealedcarry.com/defensive-carbine-1/

Good way to build up those AR handling skills.
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Re: Quality Range Ammo .223/.556 for AR15

#39

Post by DLuke00 »

Bitter Clinger, thank you for the invite!! I'm on the east side of Houston but a road trip would be nice!! If my wife and I are ever in the area, then your first on my list to contact! I have family that lives just east of DFW in the Vann, Tx area.

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Re: Quality Range Ammo .223/.556 for AR15

#40

Post by DLuke00 »

Also, my wife is taking to the shooting really well and we are actually looking to start shooting and contemplating shooting in this arena!

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Re: Quality Range Ammo .223/.556 for AR15

#41

Post by QB »

I use Wolf Gold and it's been great range ammo. I buy it by the case from a couple of different vendors. My range allows FMJ but doesn't allow anything that sticks to a magnet so I'm good to go with the Wolf Gold.
"You may find me one day dead in a ditch somewhere. But by God, you'll find me in a pile of brass."~~ Tpr. M. Padgett
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