TexasCHLforum.com

I am looking for a gunsmith in the DFW area that can do a Front Sight Post Shave on my AR so I can add a hand guard that extends past the gas block. Anyone have a recommendation? I will have them install the hand guard as well as a AAC 51T mount so I can attach my M4-2000 suppressor..........whenever the BATFE decides to approve my Form 4. LOL. 3 months and waiting.

It would probably be a good bit cheaper to just install a low profile gas block yourself. All you need is a punch and a hammer. If I lived in the Metromess I would offer to help you do it.

I hear bad things about that because of the set screws VS pinned if the barrel wasn't made for set screws. Your thoughts? By the way thanks for the offer.

Forget the smith, no need for one. An Ar is modular and very much like legos. No need for a smith. If you determined to cut the existing sight this can be done with dremel. But as mentioned previously replacing the entire gas block is a much better option. Some gas blocks are pinned others use set screws while others are clamp-on. Either way you can easily locate a gas block to suit whatever needs you have and will be much happier with the results in the end.

Cool. Well thanks for the responses. I definitely considered doing it myself which I do with most AR stuff. Just the thought of cutting made me nervous. I will probably try doing the shave myself and if screw it up then buy a new gas block. I had just heard that if the gas block is held in place with set screws and the barrel doesn't have dimples for the screws then even with red lock tite it can get hot and move during high round count shooting sessions like carbine classes. Again thanks for the responses!

I've cut at least 5 guns and gone the low-profile route 2 or 3 times (I have a lot of friends that ask me to do this stuff for them). In my opinion, you're better off spending the $20-30 on the low profile gas block - it is just so much easier/cleaner. If you use Loctite on the screws, they probably aren't going anywhere (at least, I haven't seen it yet).

If you go the cutting route, you will spend a lot of time cutting, testing fit with the new rail, and then realizing you need to cut off a lot more. It's time consuming and, in my opinion, not worth the effort when the alternative is so much easier. You will also need some bluing chemical to darken up the shiny shaved metal. The new rail and the stuff you put on it will do a good job hiding the home-brewed FSB underneath, but you'll still know it's there and that bugs some people.

You might consider doing both - throw a cheap low-pro on there, and then cut up your old FSB and stash it in a spare parts pile. If you ever have trouble with the screws (you won't), just remove the low-pro and install your hack-job part.

Lots of YouTube help to get it done.

gigag04 wrote:Lots of YouTube help to get it done.

Yep. Watched a couple of vids. Headed to my buddy's house who has a nice work bench. About 1hr later and it was done. Hardest part is getting those taper pins out. I see why people like using them. I have a 13inch Troy VTAC rail on the way. It should be here by Tuesday. Hopefully it will fit over it no problem. I think its just fine. I might do a gas block next time but this wasn't that hard and it was free. LOL. I don't mind it being ugly since its covered by the hand guard. Thanks for everyone's help and suggestions. Thats why I love this forum.



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Finally got the rail installed. Looks pretty nice and very lightweight. Now just have to buy a folding front sight. Not sure if am gonna add a AFG or a handstop. The rail is very slim and feels really nice so I am thinking of just adding a handstop.



Uploaded with ImageShack.us



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

I ended up shaving a couple (mostly to be cheap) and it wasnt hard. A lot of the gas blocks are bulky and add weight as opposed to a well shaved svelte existing FSB. Tape off the barrel and be careful and you dont even need to dissassemble the rifle. Did you have to shave off the sling attachment and bayonet lug too?

Yeah. I used an angle grinder and just took my time. It's not bad. I took it off the gun though. I stuck with the stock gas block because the barrel was designed for taper pins. You can buy a tool to dimple the barrel for low profile gas blocks with set screws. I just felt this was stronger with my particular barrel and the pins make sure you line the gas port up properely. I love the troy rail.

Nice work. Shave is def better than aftermarket in regards to durability.

Love the rail too, almost went that route but got a great on the DD used.

gigag04 wrote:Nice work. Shave is def better than aftermarket in regards to durability.

Love the rail too, almost went that route but got a great on the DD used.

I saw the thread on your rifle. Looks great. Good thing you got a deal on that DD rail cuz they aren't cheap. LOL. I mainly chose the Troy Alpha so i didn't have to change the barrel nut. The DD rail you used requires its own barrel nut right?

TheDude wrote:

gigag04 wrote:Nice work. Shave is def better than aftermarket in regards to durability.

Love the rail too, almost went that route but got a great on the DD used.

I saw the thread on your rifle. Looks great. Good thing you got a deal on that DD rail cuz they aren't cheap. LOL. I mainly chose the Troy Alpha so i didn't have to change the barrel nut. The DD rail you used requires its own barrel nut right?

Yup.