Suppresor Talk/ options

[fernando1027]

So I have a little 556 Ar-15 that I build my self. Now I what to run it suppress Which brand should a get? or what are the best one? .
( looking some of Surefire not sure to get it ) please let me know.

[carlson1]

There are a lot of members that are "suppressor expert", but I am not one of them. I only have one suppressor and it is from YHM. I do wish I would have spent a couple of extra hundred dollars and bought the titanium model because of the weight. Mine can get a little heavy.

[fernando1027]

There are a lot of members that are "suppressor expert", but I am not one of them. I only have one suppressor and it is from YHM. I do wish I would have spent a couple of extra hundred dollars and bought the titanium model because of the weight. Mine can get a little heavy.

Thanks For the info Hopefully ill get some good info on the topic :)

[mrvmax]

I’m pleased with my Liberty Mystic. It’s multi caliber and I’ve used on guns from 17HMR to 308 Win. Since I only have one can presently I’m glad it is multi caliber. Now it’s not the best for any one caliber but it works on many.

[Weg]

I have 3 .30 cal. Suppressors : YHM Phantom direct thread, HVT Gemtech quick connect, and a Silencerco Harvester. My favorite by far is the Silencerco Harvester direct thread. It is light, quieter than the others, and can be had with an insert that allows it to be used on 1/2 or 5/8 threads. I use it on everything from a .22 to a 30.06. It works very well on my 5.56 Ar's. The only drawback is that it's aluminum, and the manufacturer says you should limit it to a handful of shots per minute, can't remember the number though.

[MaduroBU]

Get a separate rimfire can if. You'll be shooting .22 LR or only shoot jacketed rimfire like 17 hmr or .22wmr. Don't put .22 lr through a center fire rifle can.

[The Annoyed Man]

You can build one on a Form 1, completely legally, for a third to a quarter of the retail price of buying one. I own three. One is a commercial AAC can in .308 caliber, one is a home built .308 caliber can, and one is a commercial Rugged Obsidian pistol can.

My advice is to always go over-bore. You can suppress a 5.56 weapon with a .308 can even quieter than a 5.56 can for the same weapon, but you can’t suppress a .308 weapon with a 5.56 can. External diameter for either can will be roughly the same - give or take maybe .1”.

To put home-built prices into comparison with commercial prices:

My all steel AAC 762-SDN-6 cost me $830 retail.

My aluminum / steel Rugged Obsidian45 pistol can (which will also work on 9mm even more quietly) cost me $850 retail.

My titanium / steel baffles home-built .308 can cost me about $240 in parts.

If you built your own AR, that is more complicated than building your own can. Search the forum for AndyC’s thread on “suppressor build” for more details, but it is just silly how simple it is.

[The Annoyed Man]

Get a separate rimfire can if. You'll be shooting .22 LR or only shoot jacketed rimfire like 17 hmr or .22wmr. Don't put .22 lr through a center fire rifle can.

Really only an issue if you can’t service the suppressor yourself because of the crud buildup. If the suppressor is user-serviceable, it shouldn’t make a difference.

[Scott B.]

There are a ton of options out there.

Price goes from low to high along these general lines:

1. direct thread - stainless (blends)
2. direct thread - titanium
3. quick detach - stainless
4. quick detach - titanium

Titanium is lighter but not as 'durable'. Durability is a bit of a misnomer as few shooters are ever going to wear out a can. How the can attaches to your platform is a price / personal preference choice. Direct thread cans can loosen up while shooting which is less desirable. Quick detach cans require some sort of mount affixed to the muzzle. Some manufacturers include the mount with the can, others require you purchase them separately.

Brands? There are more and more out there. There's a lot of hype in the suppressor market. Pick a price and feature range, then shop around.

Remember, no matter what can you buy, automatically add +$200 mentally for the tax stamp.

I'm a little biased, but have been consistently impressed with the Sig Sauer suppressor line.

[superstar]

You can build one on a Form 1, completely legally, for a third to a quarter of the retail price of buying one. I own three. One is a commercial AAC can in .308 caliber, one is a home built .308 caliber can, and one is a commercial Rugged Obsidian pistol can.

My advice is to always go over-bore. You can suppress a 5.56 weapon with a .308 can even quieter than a 5.56 can for the same weapon, but you can’t suppress a .308 weapon with a 5.56 can. External diameter for either can will be roughly the same - give or take maybe .1”.

To put home-built prices into comparison with commercial prices:

My all steel AAC 762-SDN-6 cost me $830 retail.

My aluminum / steel Rugged Obsidian45 pistol can (which will also work on 9mm even more quietly) cost me $850 retail.

My titanium / steel baffles home-built .308 can cost me about $240 in parts.

If you built your own AR, that is more complicated than building your own can. Search the forum for AndyC’s thread on “suppressor build” for more details, but it is just silly how simple it is.

Thanks for the tip! something to consider based on the very appealing price. Can we prep it (measure, cut it, etc.) and not assemble it first while one waits for the stamp's approval or is it best to get the stamp before buying the parts? TIA.

[MrMcCullster]

I've been looking at silencers here recently online (I'm dreaming of the day I get one) and I've really been drawn to the Dead Air silencer line. I was interested in the SilencerCo and YHM lines, but when I saw all of the various adapters to get into SilencerCo.: the multi-caliber inserts and springs, brakes, end caps, and other various accessories to use SilencerCo equipment, I kind of fell off that bandwagon.

Silencer Co. to me is a "system" that you get into, and if that's what you want for it to be simple, but pay a little extra money for all the doo-dads and gizmos to run it on all your rifles and calibers, then you can do that.

That seems to be the two sides to silencer options. You can go the "multi-caliber" or the "dedicated" caliber route.

There's lots of suppressor comparison videos on YouTube to watch and I've found some great information there.

Me personally, I want a .300 blackout specific suppressor that can be as quiet as possible, and so far the Dead Air suppressors seem to be up there as some of the quietest, and a lot of gun industry people I follow are big fans of theirs.

I haven't completely discounted the YHM. They seem to be good too.

[The Annoyed Man]

You can build one on a Form 1, completely legally, for a third to a quarter of the retail price of buying one. I own three. One is a commercial AAC can in .308 caliber, one is a home built .308 caliber can, and one is a commercial Rugged Obsidian pistol can.

My advice is to always go over-bore. You can suppress a 5.56 weapon with a .308 can even quieter than a 5.56 can for the same weapon, but you can’t suppress a .308 weapon with a 5.56 can. External diameter for either can will be roughly the same - give or take maybe .1”.

To put home-built prices into comparison with commercial prices:

My all steel AAC 762-SDN-6 cost me $830 retail.

My aluminum / steel Rugged Obsidian45 pistol can (which will also work on 9mm even more quietly) cost me $850 retail.

My titanium / steel baffles home-built .308 can cost me about $240 in parts.

If you built your own AR, that is more complicated than building your own can. Search the forum for AndyC’s thread on “suppressor build” for more details, but it is just silly how simple it is.

Thanks for the tip! something to consider based on the very appealing price. Can we prep it (measure, cut it, etc.) and not assemble it first while one waits for the stamp's approval or is it best to get the stamp before buying the parts? TIA.

You can buy parts and do anything you want EXCEPT drill out the baffles or the end cap. You can form them, but if you drill those, you are in possession of a silencer, even if you have not assembled the parts. You’ll have to have the outer tube engraved with the relevant information, such as your name (or your trust name), the model# you designate for it, the serial# you designate for it, etc. But until you drill out the baffles and the endcap, it’s just a solvent trap....or something like that. Once you’ve got your tax stamp back from ATF, you can go ahead and assemble everything into a working suppressor. Assembly takes about 30 seconds. You’ll probably want to cerakote it. My son and I just used the spray on Cerakote on the ones we built. I think AndyC just used some kind of hi-temp Krylon paint or something like it.

AndyC and I bought our parts from https://sdtacticalarms.com, except for the baffles, which are just stainless steel freeze plugs which we bought from NAPA Auto Parts. You’ll also need a forming tool to form the freeze plugs into the right shape before drilling, and a small hydraulic press from Harbor Freight to compress the forming tool. I have to look through my emails for the supplier, since I can’t recall their name at the moment. You may find the name on the SDTacticalArms website. But if you READ THIS THREAD, most of the necessary details are discussed.

[MechAg94]

I have bought a couple of SilencerCo suppressors. I wish I could tell you more, but I don't have them yet. Still waiting on the paperwork.

I really wish they would pass that bill to drop silencers out of the NFA, but if they just get the approval time down to 30 or 60 days, it would make a lot of difference.

[MaduroBU]

Get a separate rimfire can if. You'll be shooting .22 LR or only shoot jacketed rimfire like 17 hmr or .22wmr. Don't put .22 lr through a center fire rifle can.

Really only an issue if you can’t service the suppressor yourself because of the crud buildup. If the suppressor is user-serviceable, it shouldn’t make a difference.

That's true, but a number of cans are made sealed these days. The powder and lead residue that a .22, or really any cast lead bullet, leaves inside a can is far worse than a jacketed bullet. Even if taking it apart to clean it is an option, make sure that it's worth the hassle.

If you do opt to run cast bullets or .22 LR through a can, put silver anti seize on the disassembly threads first. Also, break the seal on the disassembly threads every 20 rounds or so (just loosen a turn and then tighten it back up). I once had to send a .22 can back to Gemtech and it took THEM a month to loosen it.... After it sat in kroil in my safe for 3 months just prior. It was that stuck after 150 rounds.

[mrvmax]

Get a separate rimfire can if. You'll be shooting .22 LR or only shoot jacketed rimfire like 17 hmr or .22wmr. Don't put .22 lr through a center fire rifle can.

Really only an issue if you can’t service the suppressor yourself because of the crud buildup. If the suppressor is user-serviceable, it shouldn’t make a difference.

That's true, but a number of cans are made sealed these days. The powder and lead residue that a .22, or really any cast lead bullet, leaves inside a can is far worse than a jacketed bullet. Even if taking it apart to clean it is an option, make sure that it's worth the hassle.

If you do opt to run cast bullets or .22 LR through a can, put silver anti seize on the disassembly threads first. Also, break the seal on the disassembly threads every 20 rounds or so (just loosen a turn and then tighten it back up). I once had to send a .22 can back to Gemtech and it took THEM a month to loosen it.... After it sat in kroil in my safe for 3 months just prior. It was that stuck after 150 rounds.

I’ve never had a problem with mine with 22 or anything else. I pull it apart and throw the baffle into the ultrasonic.