New reloader here

[texasmusic]

Thanks Andy,

Here's a few pics of the headstamp markings I mentioned...



A question on crimps... What do I have here? I adjusted the bullet seater to where it just contacts the brass with some resistance at the end of the stroke. I feel like i might be compressing the brass versus bending it over the contour of the bullet. I'm using the lee seater/crimp die. I was aiming for a slight taper crimp here.



this one is a 9mm.

[urnoodle]

I had the opportunity to watch a friend of mine reload this weekend. He has always reloaded my brass for me and I've never had a problem with them. This time he was using a different powder. He cross referenced a Lee reloading manual, a Lyman manual and the powder manufacturer load data. They all had different loads and different OALs for the same powder and bullet configuration. I posed the question, "which one do you use when they are all different?" My friend said he always defers to the powder manufacturer load data. This opened a debate with another reloading friend who disagreed with his choice. The 2nd reloader indicated that the load data being used would cause too much pressure. So is there one source that is more appropriate than another or is it up to the reloader?

Just for background this is what my friend loaded:
9mm 115gr zero FMJ bullet
Accurate Arms #5 powder 5.8gr
CCI #500 small pistol primers
Mixed brass but mostly WWB
OAL 1.100

Manual Load- Lee:
9mm 115gr zero FMJ bullet
Accurate Arms #5 powder 6.4-7.0
OAL 1.095

Manual Load- Lyman
9mm 115gr zero FMJ bullet
Accurate Arms #5 powder 5.5-7.0gr
OAL 1.090

[Jumping Frog]

Too funny, Andy. I've got the same graphic saved in my Photobucket album to show noobs how they can use their own barrel as a case gauge.

Me - I happen to prefer a tiny bit of roll-crimp on semi-autos just for feed-reliability, because I've seen where the edge of the case-mouth has hung up on the edge of the chamber - but that's a far more advanced technique that should only be used 1. if needed and 2. once you know exactly what you're doing - it's not a cure-all.

I don't get quite that nuanced. I simply crimp just enough to remove the case flare that was created to insert the bullet. On a .45, I'll achieve about .471" after crimping.

[texasmusic]

Thanks Andy and jumpingfrog. do i have a taper crimp in the pictures? I am under the impression that the dies i have will not perform a roll crimp. Do your cases show that shiny ring where it looks like its been deformed? (Might be hard to see if you dont have filthy brass like me )

[texasmusic]

As far as removing flare goes i have virtually none after i seat the bullet. I only flare enough to allow the base of the bullet to force its way in. Bad practice?

[Jumping Frog]

I only flare enough to allow the base of the bullet to force its way in.

Yep, that is all you need.

[texasmusic]

Anybody have the Lee powder dispenser? I have one and the dang thing puts more powder on the table than in the case...

Also I'm gearing up for 45LC. Any harm in using my 230 gr TMJ RN's in these until I can get some lead cast ones?

Also also, casting is up next once I move into my new place. I'm thinking of just casting 45acp and LC to start off with. Is there a good bullet that will meet the needs of both? My SW1911 shouldn't have problems feeding SWC's as it almost feeds empty cases reliably but I'd like to try a few.

[Jumping Frog]

Anybody have the Lee powder dispenser? I have one and the dang thing puts more powder on the table than in the case...

Are you talking about the Perfect Powder Measure, or the Pro Auto Disk? I've had no significant issues with the Pro Auto Disk, just a little minor leakage when using something really fine grained like AA #7.

If you are talking about the Perfect Powder Measure, I can dig out a fix for that.

Also I'm gearing up for 45LC. Any harm in using my 230 gr TMJ RN's in these until I can get some lead cast ones?

Also also, casting is up next once I move into my new place. I'm thinking of just casting 45acp and LC to start off with. Is there a good bullet that will meet the needs of both? My SW1911 shouldn't have problems feeding SWC's as it almost feeds empty cases reliably but I'd like to try a few.

The only issue with .45 LC is you should really slug your chambers to see what size they are. .45 LC is notorious for being all over the map size-wise, anywhere from ..452 to .456. Sometimes I think 25% of Mike Venturino's writing income has been earned simply writing about all the sizing issues with .45 LC.

[texasmusic]

It's the Perfect powder measure. It seems as if the powder comes out from the gap between the inner wheel and the part it slides on.

Would I need to check bore diameter before firing factory ammo or is it a matter of accuracy not safety?

[Jumping Frog]

accuracy not safety?

Accuracy.

If you have oversized chambers and undersized bullets, you can find yourself keyholing targets at 25 yards.

Here is a PPM fix: http://forums.loadmastervideos.com/foru ... .php?t=933" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Basically, if the plastic drum has high and low spots, you can get leakage.

The solution is to get some valve grinding paste and lap the body/drum until the low spots are removed. You only need to worry about the spots that are exposed to powder, there is likely a spot or two on the 'backside' that is bigger but can be ignored.

Be careful to not make things oval when you lap it. Keep your lap strokes long and random, rotate things often, that way you never spend too much time with the same surfaces grinding on each other. Keep the length of the strokes > 1/4 turn. Then rotate the Body one way and the drum the other and make a few more strokes then rotate again ect.

Once the low spots are (almost) gone, smooth the finish with 320 grit then a liberal coating of graphite dust..

[texasmusic]

accuracy not safety?

Accuracy.

If you have oversized chambers and undersized bullets, you can find yourself keyholing targets at 25 yards.

Here is a PPM fix: http://forums.loadmastervideos.com/foru ... .php?t=933" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Basically, if the plastic drum has high and low spots, you can get leakage.

The solution is to get some valve grinding paste and lap the body/drum until the low spots are removed. You only need to worry about the spots that are exposed to powder, there is likely a spot or two on the 'backside' that is bigger but can be ignored.

Be careful to not make things oval when you lap it. Keep your lap strokes long and random, rotate things often, that way you never spend too much time with the same surfaces grinding on each other. Keep the length of the strokes > 1/4 turn. Then rotate the Body one way and the drum the other and make a few more strokes then rotate again ect.

Once the low spots are (almost) gone, smooth the finish with 320 grit then a liberal coating of graphite dust..

Jumpingfrog,
Thank you for the link.

In your opinion is it worth the trouble to modify the Lee PPD vs upgrading to the auto-disk? I've been looking at the auto-disk to speed up the process. I also have a few doubts to the method used in the link... removing plastic from the drum should cause more leaks even given the fact that the drum is oversized to seal in the powder.

On 45LC, Is it acceptable to test factory ammo first (I have winchester and Black hills as of now). If I have no key-holing should I be able to continue?

Thank you for your continued assistance! A brand new reloader appreciates the advice!!!