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Hello, I've been looking at gunsmith prices for installing a muzzle brake. Is it actually around $100 or more to install one? I've seen $175, $200. Seems like too darn much for that small labor. I did a post earlier about muzzle brake installation, but no answers. So, what are all the tools I would need to install the muzzle brake myself?
Thanks

It depends on what make/model the firearm is, if the barrel is threaded, If any existing threads are standard for that caliber, if there is an existing muzzle device, if any existing muzzle device is pinned in place, ect.

I assume you are talking about a brake on an AR? If your barrel is threaded all you need is a 7/8 wrench or an armorer's tool. A vice and vice block is handy but not required.
Clear weapon and varify the chamber is empty.
Remove upper from lower and remove bolt. (Just for safety)
Remove the current muzzle device. (Counter clockwise)
Clean the threads and remove any loctite that may be on the threads.
Apply new loctite if desired. ( I don't loctite mine but do apply copper anti-seize)
Thread on new muzzle device and torque to manufacturer's spec.

If it's a simple "remove and replace" on a threaded AR (unpinned), I'll do it for $10. $20 if you insist on watching while I work

If it's an AR, and you buy a Smith Enterprise Vortex flash hider, you can thread it on and snug it down by hand, and it will self-tighten as you shoot the gun. You don't even need any tools.

The prices you were quoted probably include removing the barrel and threading it, plus the price of the brake.

But just threading the barrel should run well under $100

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x007x wrote:Hello I am trying to find certified gunsmith near me instead of driving to the Arms Room in League City. Is there anyone who owns a gunstore or works at one with a gunsmith for Ar 15s?
Thanks everyone.

I believe this is the post he referred to in his OP. In that case, everything that has been said here about AR15s is applicable.

x007x, you don't need any special tools except an open-ended wrench of some kind which will span the flats of the "muzzle break" (more likely "flash-hider") you are wanting to remove and/or install. The Vortex unit I mentioned above really is self tightening. I have two of them, on an AR15 carbine and an AR10 SASS rifle, and they really can be screwed on by hand, snugged down by hand, and are self-tightening. And most flash-hiders also reduce felt recoil by directing muzzle blast in a direction at angles to the vector of the recoil impulse. But, a muzzle break is NOT necessarily a flash hider.......so try to be more specific in the question in order to get a more specific answer.

Ok, sorry for not giving enough information. Yes, it is an AR, and my barrel is already threaded and it is not going to be pinned. It is set for it to just be screwed on. My girlfriend is just saying I should take it to the gunsmith to have it done due to me having lack of experience. Also, I don't have a bench or something well enough to set a vice block on (I know you are saying I don't need one but wish I still did though). I saw the wrench at my local academy for about $20-$30.

I have a Spike's Tactical Dynacomp Extreme Brake Black 5.56mm NATO with a Spikes Tactical ST- FN Cold Hammer Forged 16 Mid-Length Barrel (5.56). I would like to do it myself for the learning experience, but always wanted to clarify with other people on this.

I also am pretty sure you are right Rex B..It was a Sunday so the places were closed and unable to ask. I got a hold of the Arm Rooms GS and they said $35 for the job.

Depending where you are, I'm sure someone near you could loan you a wrench, walk you through the process, especially for a 1 time job. Seems silly to buy a wrench or pay someone for a single item like that.

Please edit your profile to show your general location.
Might be some local folks willing to help

You don't even need a special wrench - many crescent wrenches will work (surely your household has one?) or any other generic wrench that fits. I've changed muzzle devices on ARs countless times without any sort of workbench - throw the thing on the carpet and pin it down with your body while you crank off the muzzle device.

I'm in Arlington if you want some help - I've got the specialty tools if that makes you feel better. But if you take me up on the offer, we're going to have to have a talk about you taking advice from your girlfriend about gunsmithing.

I just keep hearing here nag me about it, lol I would rather do it myself.

x007x wrote:I just keep hearing here nag me about it, lol I would rather do it myself.

Seriously.....it is NOT a big deal. It will take you 30 seconds with a crescent wrench or some other open ended wrench, so long as it will fit across the flats of the flash-hider. And I keep mentioning the Smith Enterprises "Vortex" unit. They literally thread on by hand. Snug it down, by hand, and then go shoot and have fun. The design of the way the gases are vented applies torque to the flash-hider, causing it to torque itself down. By the end of your range session, it will take a proper tool to remove it because it will be on TIGHT.

This unit also noticeably reduces recoil, which isn't really a big deal on a AR carbine anyway, but it is just so easy to deal with that I really like them. Honestly, none of them are worse than changing a lightbulb—even those made by other manufacturers, including the standard A2 "birdcage" type. They are just plain simple to put on. I think you're making a much bigger deal out of this than it is worth, and when you've finished with it, you're going to laugh at yourself a little bit for what you put yourself through.

I use a crescent wrench. They can take a little finish off the edges of the lugs, if I cared about it I'd put something on the jaws.

Some aftermarket brake's won't fit the standard AR wrench. Also you might need something to grip the receiver/bbl while you twist. Vise works best but I've improvised a few other setups.

Look up crush/peel washers if you have to time the brake (make the up side up and the down side down.) But it really is an easy job.