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I've got a question about shooting steel targets. Oh... btw... talking about pistols here...

I did a search, but all I could find was that people DO shoot them, but not HOW they shoot them....

Reason I ask, although I will go to the public range to shoot when I need to sight something in, or just dont have the time, but my preferred shooting is out at the "ranch". We will load up some groceries and chairs and just go make a family fun day out of it. We take reg shilouette targets, cans, etc. What I have been doing lately is buying a box of clay pigeons and setting those up against logs, or against the bank of one of the stock tanks and shooting those. Gives good feedback when you hit them, but those things are pretty small lol.. plus they are hard to prop up against things sometime. I was thinking about buying or making my own steel targets and hanging them from some plant hangers and setting up some sort of simple "run and gun" type of course for a change of pace...

I read that you have to shoot steel with lead bullets, but my question is, since I am not a re-loader (yet) where do I get that kind of ammunition? I usually shoot FMJ UMC, academy brand, WWB, etc... is that okay, or no? Also, what is the closest range to shoot? I guess I can stick with the clay pigeons, just looking to add some variety if possible.

THanks for the help!

I'm no steel shootin' expert, but I know there are minimum distances involved (at least 15 yards away? please verify this with someone more knowledgeable). Also steel has to be thick enough - 1/4 inch or more? again, not an expert. I tried shooting a old cast iron frying pan once and while it deflected some .22 rounds, everything else went through it like a knife through butter But I've shot quality steel at different ranges and it seems it's usually at least 1/4inch thick plate steel.

On the clay pigeons, try finding some stands made to set these on at Cabelas, Academy etc. Also Academy and others have some "self healing" targets made of some kind of rubber that seem to work well - either spinners or little weird-shaped objects that you shoot, they skip/roll across the ground, then you shoot em again.

Also just simple balloons and some tape or staples into a wooden stand works well too (used this method many times) for reactive targets.

austinrealtor wrote: shoot em again.

Also just simple balloons and some tape or staples into a wooden stand works well too (used this method many times) for reactive targets.

ahh.. water balloons would be fun! lol

Shooting at steel targets is fun and rewarding but - - - 15 Yards is the minimum distance for pistols 100 yards for high power rifles. Back splatter is a problem with any bullet type FMJ tends to break up and send shards of copper all over the place lead bullets most of the time either breakup or get deflected downward. A swinger works best deflecting the bullet fragments downward. Eye protection is mandatory as is a box of band aids. I have plucked shards of bullets out of myself and others so be careful.

Not sure about steel, but I shoot solid oak stumps milled flat and facing me at about 15 feet, I get bouce backs that stike me every 100 rds. or so, but with no more energy than a thrown pebble. I have figured out that everything should be squared up well, no angles. Steel would be way different in that no bullets stick in steel.

AndyC wrote:10 yards minimum for handguns - FMJ not recommended and lead bullets preferred.

I have been to a few shoots where lots of folks only had FMJ and they shot the steel without incident, but as Mojo said, eye protection should be made mandatory (even with lead)... be careful and angle the face of the target slightly downwards (top forward, base back) - don't keep them flat.

I guessI have never looked, I just ask for FMJ at the counter. You can buy unjacketed ammo? Or am I going to have to wait untill I start reloading? If you can buy it, I wonder if it is cost prohibitive in the long run and just stick to shooting clay, balloons, etc?

The bullets in Blazer (aluminium) ammo seem to be softer than most FMJ and will flatten when they hit steel. I haven't shot any Blazer Brass at steel enough to know how they work.. Berry's or Rainier bullets act just like lead when you shoot them against steel.

CCreyeder wrote:I've got a question about shooting steel targets. Oh... btw... talking about pistols here...

I did a search, but all I could find was that people DO shoot them, but not HOW they shoot them....

I read that you have to shoot steel with lead bullets, but my question is, since I am not a re-loader (yet) where do I get that kind of ammunition? I usually shoot FMJ UMC, academy brand, WWB, etc... is that okay, or no? Also, what is the closest range to shoot? I guess I can stick with the clay pigeons, just looking to add some variety if possible.

THanks for the help!

Lead may be preferred for steel, but I don't think it's mandatory.
I've been shooting steel plate matches competitively for several years, folks use FMJ & JHP all the time without issue.
Frags from the steel will happen no matter what type of bullet you're using.
I maintain that the shooter ALWAYS wear eye protection when shooting - and ESPECIALLY SO when shooting steel targets.
ALL bystanders/observers should wear eye protection as well.

Minimum distance is important. My club requires 10 yards (30 ft), but the competitive orgs in which I compete call for a minimum distance of 23 ft.
Use quality steel targets. When the steel starts pitting and looks like a moon cratered surface - stop using it. Too many frags from bad/pitted steel.
The steel that my club uses is AR400 hardness - http://www.handgunsports.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; - good stuff - lasts a LONG time.

Steel plate shooting is a TON OF FUN! Do it safely - quality steel, minimum distance, ALWAYS wear eye protection.

I wonder how that frangible stuff would do?

And if you were to reload specifically for steel, how would you build round?

Frangible ammo is great to shoot at steel. It turns into dust on impact the down side is the cost. To load specifically for steel I would use a quality cast bullet, or a plated bullet and work up a load that will knock the steel down and destroy the bullet.

As mentioned earlier, the condition of the steel target has a lot to do with back spatter.

The Elm fork range near Dallas has steel plates that are a lot of fun.
Ive never shot in a competition but shooting steel plates has become my favorite range activity.
Its reminiscent of the good old days plinking tin cans - but its easier to reset

Not sure the distance but on the right day the sun comes in to the bay and you can see the cloud of shrapnel explode off the steel.

Shoot a box of 50 FMJ and you will be shocked at how much jacket and lead is on the ground within feet of you ...
Eye protection is a must

I mostly shoot 9mm and 45 but its also fun to shoot 22 lr from my Browning Buckmark. The plates are WAY to heavy for 22 but if you hit the top edge and sometimes hit it 2 or 3 times fast you can knock them down w 22...

I shoot at ratty 1/4 in. steel knock-down targets almost every week. People keep warning me about ricochet and splatter. I wear eye and ear protection. I usually come at the targets from 10 yards or so and approach from a small angle. I haven't noticed any fragments yet but I did at another range just Saturday. Some little bitty thing hit my eye cover from another shooter's firing. Yes, eye protection. My friends and I use US-made FMJ and JHP ammo.