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Does anyone have any info on using a LaserMax on a Glock? I really like it, but do not want to spend that kind of money on it if it doesn't work.

I have it. Doesn't affect the function of the gun at all. Mine has been dead-on accurate as well. It's been in my Glock 19 for a couple of years now and most of the time I just forget about it. But it's nice that it's there if I ever come into a situation where it's useful.

Does it activate like the Crimson Trace by simply griping the gun or do you have to flip some switch?

Quahog wrote:Does it activate like the Crimson Trace by simply griping the gun or do you have to flip some switch?

I'm also looking at this for my G19. The install kit comes with a replacement for the Glock slide lock. The LaserMax slide lock acts as the on/off switch; push it in from either side and it will turn the laser on, then push it the other direction to turn it off.

I think the best price I've found online is around $280. That's still hard for me to stomach right now but it is the only option for a lefty wanting concealed carry and a laser on a semiauto.

HighHandicap wrote:

Quahog wrote:Does it activate like the Crimson Trace by simply griping the gun or do you have to flip some switch?

I'm also looking at this for my G19. The install kit comes with a replacement for the Glock slide lock. The LaserMax slide lock acts as the on/off switch; push it in from either side and it will turn the laser on, then push it the other direction to turn it off.

I think the best price I've found online is around $280. That's still hard for me to stomach right now but it is the only option for a lefty wanting concealed carry and a laser on a semiauto.

Thanks High... yeah, that's pretty pricey for a laser IYAM. Got night sights on your G19? I installed the Trijicons and they make a world of difference in low-light conditions.

I use that internal Guide Rod laser in my Every Day Carry Glock 26, along with bright Orange Rear/Bright Yellow front Advantage Tactical Sights.

Got it after I put a guide Rod Laser on a Taurus PT92.

Yeah a bit pricy, but I like them, the turn on switch might be a disadvantage over the CT (which I have on my 19) but the convenience of using any holster makes up for it, and the easy to see Advantage Tactical Sights ($74.99 to $79.99) make it rare I'd really ever need a laser under any lighting condition (both are spot-on) The orange and yellow are actually brighter and even easier to see than it appears on the color selector, just make a triangle. After trying all Combinations, I prefer a bright yellow front sight to grab my attention easiest and the bright orange rear to contrast a little to quickly make a triangle, but both are pretty easy to see in the partial darkness even though they aren't "night sights" (I replaced my Triijicon nightsights [and my Meprolights on my 19] with these as these were actually easier to see quickly in lower light with that color combination). http://www.advantagetactical.com/colors.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I just ordered two sets of batteries from Guns Etc. in Arizona, even after having various gun lasers since about 1989, I tend to play with the laser too often, cats and dogs love it

RPB wrote: Yeah a bit pricy, but I like them, the turn on switch might be a disadvantage over the CT (which I have on my 19) but the convenience of using any holster makes up for it, and the easy to see Advantage Tactical Sights ($74.99 to $79.99) make it rare I'd really ever need a laser under [.....]

I'm curious about your "use any holster" comment. I have a lasermax for my G26, but any time I use it in any of my concealable/comfortable holsters - (which for me are IWB hybrid leather/kydex setups like the MTAC or Crossbreed supertuck), the laser "self-activates" and drains the batteries. Have you run into this problem? What holster(s) do you use?

My kholster never had that problem and I used it for a year daily, but my Comfort Carry did (Both are like IWB hybrid leather/kydex setups like the MTAC or Crossbreed supertuck)

Problem was easily fixed with a hair dryer and a spoon in 2 minutes

DIAGNOSES:
Problem was caused by that indentation for the take down lever/activation on/off lever on the "blue gun" they use for a mold which doesn't actually have the take down lever itself, just an indentation. So the normal takedown lever gets pushed to one side slightly by the kydex.

The lasermax lever is a tad longer than the original takedown lever.

SOLUTION:
Heat that indentation that presses the lever in towards the leather, and when softened a little, from inside the kydex with a spoon handle or similar object, push it out so it doesn't push the lever in. Hair dryer is plenty hot enough to soften just that tiny spot/indentation, and use a narrow spoon handle or something to push it out, don't use a heat gun.

Never had trouble with my Desantis Tuck This 2, nor my nylon holsters or leather holsters ... not with my Kholster which was loosely formed, but just the tighter formed kydex which form to the indentation on the mold gun, which has no lever.... it just needs pushing out there to allow for the lever. Just loosening the kydex from the leather with tension screws won;t fix it as it still will activate wen belt is tight, you have to reshape/push out the kydex indentation .... but it's easy and takes 2 or 3 minutes at the most.

When finished you will no longer have to explain flashing red lights in your pants (I'll refrain from the DISCO and other PARTY jokes I heard due to the ten year old daughter rule)

RPB wrote: SOLUTION:
Heat that indentation that presses the lever in towards the leather, and when softened a little, from inside the kydex with a spoon handle or similar object, push it out so it doesn't push the lever in. Hair dryer is plenty hot enough to soften just that tiny spot/indentation, and use a narrow spoon handle or something to push it out, don't use a heat gun.

That's an awesome idea - thanks! I suspected that was what was causing the problem, just wasn't sure how to solve it! I'll give that a shot with my MTAC..

Works well
Just don't heat too large an area, and don't overheat, just soften a little to bump/press that small area out some instead of in....and you can use anything about the width of that lever to push out slightly wooden spoon handle metal spoon handle etc..

Also, when re-holstering, press against the leather side more till you get it into that depression area that you bump out some.

I guess you could extend a little channel there like they do for front sights, the trigger guard and other tight areas still let the gun "snap" into place.

Since I bumped mine out a bit, no more battery drain or "flashy pants."