Removing grime from gun parts

[Glock4ever]

I've got some buildup I can't remove from a part off a Beretta semi auto shotgun. Tried soaking some patches with hoppes #9 and sticking them in the part to soak but it didn't work well

I am in a condo so don't have a workshop etc based on that any suggestions to remove the buildup. Mineral spirits?

Edit: For some reason I can't add an attachment? Keeps going away

It is the part in the below PDF page 9 image 4 the part the guy has in his hand.

http://pdf.textfiles.com/manuals/FIREAR ... _al390.pdf

[Scott B.]

Edit: I should add, I sympathize. I shoot the gun a lot and it takes the longest to clean of any of my firearms. That piston in particular takes a lot of work. Beretta service guy said not to oil/lube that part or the gas valve to avoid excess fouling.

I've got a Beretta AL 391 Teknys Gold, it's the generation after the 390 but uses the same piston.

When I do a full tear down and clean, I soak the piston and gas valve components overnight. Attack the gunk with a bronze brush, soak it again and then I take some very fine steel wool (I can hear the screaming from here) and remove what's left. You won't damage the piston. Worst case scenario, you can buy a new piston. Talked to a guy at the range once who swore he'd rather buy a new piston than than clean the old. I think he was kidding.

Sometimes I'll dunk it in the sonic tank and use the tank's heater to help soften that crud up.

The bolt, trigger pack, and most of the rest of the 390 looks to be the same. What the 391 doesn't have is the loose spring in picture #3 of the same page.

[carlson1]

Slip 2000 Carbon Killer is the best I found and it has a pleasant smell.
https://www.slip2000.com/slip2000_carbon_killer.php

[Scott B.]

This is the product I've been using lately to clean my guns:

http://lucasoil.com/products/out-door-l ... un-cleaner

Advantage over Hoppes? The smell won't drive you from the building and skin contact is no trouble.

[Glock4ever]

Edit: I should add, I sympathize. I shoot the gun a lot and it takes the longest to clean of any of my firearms. That piston in particular takes a lot of work. Beretta service guy said not to oil/lube that part or the gas valve to avoid excess fouling.

I've got a Beretta AL 391 Teknys Gold, it's the generation after the 390 but uses the same piston.

When I do a full tear down and clean, I soak the piston and gas valve components overnight. Attack the gunk with a bronze brush, soak it again and then I take some very fine steel wool (I can hear the screaming from here) and remove what's left. You won't damage the piston. Worst case scenario, you can buy a new piston. Talked to a guy at the range once who swore he'd rather buy a new piston than than clean the old. I think he was kidding.

Sometimes I'll dunk it in the sonic tank and use the tank's heater to help soften that crud up.

The bolt, trigger pack, and most of the rest of the 390 looks to be the same. What the 391 doesn't have is the loose spring in picture #3 of the same page.

Thanks. What are you soaking it in?

[rotor]

Same problem with my Beretta A400. I listened to people about using different combos to dissolve the junk and did a test. Chopped the junk off using a wooden pick and put in a jar. Then added all of the stuff that was supposed to dissolve it and weeks later, guess- none of it was dissolved, same little chunks of gunk. I wonder how an ultrasonic would work. What I do is pick at it with wooden picks and don't sweat it too much as the gun keeps working no matter what I do.

[Scott B.]

Thanks. What are you soaking it in?

I'm not using any really aggressive product to avoid damaging materials and finishes. I also don't want to chase off any of the shop's neighbors with particularly noxious odors. Sonic tank helps, but there again to be really effective you've got use something aggressive. I like the Lucas product because it's not harsh, is environmentally friendly, but the trade-off is the added mechanical effort required to remove fouling.

I haven't tried the Slip 2000 Carbon Killer, although I'm a fan of their lube so will put that on my evaluation list.

[Glock4ever]

Same problem with my Beretta A400. I listened to people about using different combos to dissolve the junk and did a test. Chopped the junk off using a wooden pick and put in a jar. Then added all of the stuff that was supposed to dissolve it and weeks later, guess- none of it was dissolved, same little chunks of gunk. I wonder how an ultrasonic would work. What I do is pick at it with wooden picks and don't sweat it too much as the gun keeps working no matter what I do.

Got me some wooden skewers helped a bit to get the grime out of the piston. Good idea thanks

[JohnS-TX]

I use a home-brew called Ed’s Red as a cleaner – old school, but it works great.

I place grimy parts in a metal container, pour Ed’s over them, let them soak over-night. For really grimy parts, scrub with old tooth brush. After the soak, spray with brake cleaner and you’ll have sparkling parts.

I only use for metal parts. Suspect it and finished wood wouldn’t get along well.

1 part automatic transmission fluid - Dexron II, IIe or III ATF, GM Spec. D-20265 or later
1 part Kerosene
1 part Acetone
Pass on the optional lanolin

Detailed write-up on handloads.com

[Scott B.]

Same problem with my Beretta A400. I listened to people about using different combos to dissolve the junk and did a test. Chopped the junk off using a wooden pick and put in a jar. Then added all of the stuff that was supposed to dissolve it and weeks later, guess- none of it was dissolved, same little chunks of gunk. I wonder how an ultrasonic would work. What I do is pick at it with wooden picks and don't sweat it too much as the gun keeps working no matter what I do.

Got me some wooden skewers helped a bit to get the grime out of the piston. Good idea thanks

I didn't think to ask, but are you taking the piston apart before cleaning? It's a 100x easier if you have some long-nose spring clip pliers, remove the clip, washer and inner piece. Have a small container ready for those parts as they are easy to lose.

I used to not disassemble mine, but the time saved in cleaned has proven to be worth the extra effort.

[Glock4ever]

Same problem with my Beretta A400. I listened to people about using different combos to dissolve the junk and did a test. Chopped the junk off using a wooden pick and put in a jar. Then added all of the stuff that was supposed to dissolve it and weeks later, guess- none of it was dissolved, same little chunks of gunk. I wonder how an ultrasonic would work. What I do is pick at it with wooden picks and don't sweat it too much as the gun keeps working no matter what I do.

Got me some wooden skewers helped a bit to get the grime out of the piston. Good idea thanks

I didn't think to ask, but are you taking the piston apart before cleaning? It's a 100x easier if you have some long-nose spring clip pliers, remove the clip, washer and inner piece. Have a small container ready for those parts as they are easy to lose.

I used to not disassemble mine, but the time saved in cleaned has proven to be worth the extra effort.

No I am not. Thought about it but I don't have the pliers. Will need to pick some up.

Will these work OK?
https://www.walmart.com/ip/173150481

[Nuts]

I use a home-brew called Ed’s Red as a cleaner – old school, but it works great.

I place grimy parts in a metal container, pour Ed’s over them, let them soak over-night. For really grimy parts, scrub with old tooth brush. After the soak, spray with brake cleaner and you’ll have sparkling parts.

I only use for metal parts. Suspect it and finished wood wouldn’t get along well.

1 part automatic transmission fluid - Dexron II, IIe or III ATF, GM Spec. D-20265 or later
1 part Kerosene
1 part Acetone
Pass on the optional lanolin

Detailed write-up on handloads.com

I've been using the same thing for getting rusted bolts and parts apart. My grandfather showed me that almost 40 years ago. Best rust buster there is.

[Scott B.]

No I am not. Thought about it but I don't have the pliers. Will need to pick some up.

Will these work OK?
https://www.walmart.com/ip/173150481

Might, they've got to be long enough/thin enough to fit down inside the piston.

Mine look a bit like this: https://www.walmart.com/ip/TEKTON-Inter ... r/34648469

I've also got a switchable set to do the snap ring on the forend cap. Not sure if you've got that on the 390, but on the 391 it needs to be kept lubed. Long as the spring compresses it's okay. Take down after a few thousand rounds or so.

[Glock4ever]

No I am not. Thought about it but I don't have the pliers. Will need to pick some up.

Will these work OK?
https://www.walmart.com/ip/173150481

Might, they've got to be long enough/thin enough to fit down inside the piston.

Mine look a bit like this: https://www.walmart.com/ip/TEKTON-Inter ... r/34648469

I've also got a switchable set to do the snap ring on the forend cap. Not sure if you've got that on the 390, but on the 391 it needs to be kept lubed. Long as the spring compresses it's okay. Take down after a few thousand rounds or so.

Thanks for the information. Honestly I didn't expect such detailed knowledge of this gun part on this forum. Appreciated.