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I watched that video a couple of days ago - interesting, but he took off more metal that necessary in my opinion, using that angle grinder/sanding disc. Not fond of the more rounded contours on it - or of the highly polished almost chrome look. I doubt that lasted very long - I think it would rust rapidly from finger prints and humidity.

If you look at the end of the video, after he re-assembled it, you'll notice that the cylinder doesn't rotate and index, so firing it would be risky, again in my opinion.

I own two Webley revolvers - a Mk VI in .45 made in 1917, and a Mk IV in .38 made in 1942. Both were war issued, and I shoot both anytime. The one in the video appears to be made later - the serial number is much more prominent than on either of mine.

The electrolytic rust removal process is pretty simple - it's washing soda (sodium carbonate - not to be confused with sodium bicarbonate - baking soda) mixed in the water. Use a 12 volt DC source. A battery charger works fine, but you may have problems with the newer "smarter" style charger unless you also use a car battery to show a load to the charger. Use iron/steel (but NOT stainless steel) sacrificial anodes. Or carbon rods will work. Connect the positive terminal to the anodes, connect the negative terminal to the parts to be de-rusted, and let it work for a few hours. I've done that on a number of car parts and tools. But I've gone away from that unless it's a really large part. For smaller stuff I use Evapo Rust - works very well for me.

Edit to comment to bbhack - yep, he connected them wrong the first time - the piece to be cleaned is the cathode (negative) lead. Search for "electrolytic rust removal".