texasmusic wrote:Does the brass have to be spotless of residue to start the reloading?
Nope. Also, I don't generally recommend using washing machines that are used for human clothes/dishes to be used for cleaning lead-based products. Spend the $$ and get a vibratory cleaner. Better peace of mind.
texasmusic wrote:I used case lube with a couple of the first ones and some without case lube. Couldn't tell the difference so I quit using it. These are carbide dies so I won't need to use the case lube correct?
Case lube should never be needed for straight-walled ammo reloading (pistols)
texasmusic wrote:Aluminum cases... Toss these? I didn't size them because I only have 4 or 5 of them and Lyman says not to use them...
Yes, definitely toss alum and steel cases. Only reload brass/nickel.
texasmusic wrote:Small primer vs large primer: how do I tell which one I have, are all 45 cases large primer? Also which cases need to be tossed due to crimped primers and how do I identify them via the stamp on the base. (I read some of this on here but I would like to clarify)
IIRC, Aguila brass uses small pistol primers. I don't really reload 45, so I'll let others chime in.
texasmusic wrote:Lead bullets: Not glock safe from what I hear? How can I tell if a cast bullet will be safe in a gun? Not very important right now as I'm not set up to cast anything but it's something I might look into in the future.
1) Lead bullets will void the Glock warranty (no biggie)
2) Polygonal rifling is prone to more lead fouling than rifled barrels. Want to shoot lead? Switch to a rifled barrel (i.e., Lone Wolf, Bar-sto, etc.). Problem solved. You CAN shoot lead in a Glock polygonal barrel, you just need to clean more often.