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SQLGeek wrote:Thanks for the great info everyone. TAM, why do you use the Otis system for your semi-auto rifles and a cleaning rod for your bolt rifles?

I think I'm going to give that Slip2000 a try. Do you order it online or is there a retailer that carries it?

I've just been using CLP to lubricate the slide on my M59 and it seems to work fine. Should I consider using a grease instead?

Regarding the Otis system, I just find it easier on my semi-auto rifles to pull the cleaning instrument through than push it through because A) access to the chamber end with a rod is clunky on the M1A and makes pushing a rod through and awkward thing; and B) because the distance from where the rod enters the AR15 receiver to the chamber makes for a lot of rod flexing. Being able to feed a flexible coated steel cable through from the chamber and then pulling it out through the muzzle is just a lot easier.

I use a rod on my bolt rifles because it is easy to insert a bore guide into the action and fix it in place and then push the rod through from the chamber end. I NEVER push a rod through from the muzzle end of a rifle, and I never push a rod through from the chamber end without a bore guide. I can't think of a better way to accidentally damage the crown or the rifling at the muzzle without being aware of having done so, and consequently throwing your accuracy off, and even the flash hider on the end of an AR or M1A barrel won't protect you entirely from that possibility. You should ALWAYS run your cleaning instruments through from the action end of the barrel, regardless of the rifle, and you should never use a cleaning rod that isn't coated with something to protect the rifling. The only possible exception to cleaning from the muzzle end that I can see is with a muzzle loader.

I order all my SLIP2000 products from their website (http://www.slip2000.com). I use their solvent, lubricant, and rifle grease products. I also have their copper remover on hand, but I rarely ever have to use it because after you use their cleaner and lubricant for a while, nothing really sticks to the barrel. Whatever is fouling it just pushes out with a jag during the regular cleaning process. Otherwise, you use it just like you would use Hoppes #9 or Shooter's Choice, and it takes more than one patch to clean a barrel. The other thing that is good about it is that it doesn't dissolve your brass cleaning instruments, and it doesn't harm finishes or plastics, etc.

I like that little round Otis cleaning kit for my M1A and AR15s, and I use a one-piece coated cleaning rod and bore guide with the usual implements of destruction for my bolt rifles, and a one piece brass rod with attachments for my pistols.

For solvents and lubricants, I like the SLIP2000 products. They are environmentally safe, clean and lube very well, and they don't stink — so you can clean your guns inside inside the house on those cold, wet, and windy days without getting the stink-eye from She Who Must Be Obeyed. They even have a thick "grease" which can be purchased either in a regular tub, or in a syringe. I use a tiny dab of the grease on slide rails (because it doesn't run), and on the M1A bolt roller, and anywhere else where a thick grease would be preferable to a thin oil type lubricant.

The lubricant is military approved for use on the M16 and other small arms in dusty environments because it does not attract dirt or get tacky. It displaces moisture, etc., etc., etc.

I know I sound like a salesman for their products, but I'm not. I'm just a very happy customer who is not just satisfied, but impressed with the products' performance.