Quote: "What work did you have your 'smith do to your trigger?"
Quite frankly, I'm not positive. Just told him "Hey Doc, this one's chitty too. Please fix it." I think he does some internal polishing after it's been dry fired a while to see what's happening where.
I recall having Doc Jones (972-245-2955, Carrollton) also work on my Ruger SP-101 years ago, where I think he changed out some springs, but I don't think he likes to mess with the springs on the newer Smiths. Afraid of getting them too light and they can have light primer strikes and misfires. Not good on a defensive gun ... Doc's not taken any of my DAO triggers down yet to the point they don't go bang every time.
But, a buddy fooling with new springs for his Ruger Super Blackhawk recently did ... and had to go back up to another one.
Search found 2 matches
- Sun Sep 04, 2005 10:37 am
- Forum: General Gun, Shooting & Equipment Discussion
- Topic: S&W 642 Questions
- Replies: 5
- Views: 1727
- Sat Sep 03, 2005 6:07 pm
- Forum: General Gun, Shooting & Equipment Discussion
- Topic: S&W 642 Questions
- Replies: 5
- Views: 1727
Methinks the frame on that one is aluminum alloy with steel cylincer and barrel.
That has been traditionally difficult for me to to get back to being anything but black, but I've not used anything much stiffer than a toothbrush - and lots of repetitions.
Although ya did not mention, the carbon build up on the front of the chambers can sometimes also be next-to-impossible to get back to new. Some of us have found that lots of elbow grease and a pencil eraser helps about a well as anything.
800 rounds on a j-frame trigger (especially the newer ones) ain't much for beginning to smooth one out. Heck, several years ago when they first came out, I dry fired a 342 more than that before taking it to gunsmith to get it tweaked. Then dry fired it some more and shot the hell out of it for a couple of years before a lady student swindled me out of it for $500 and named it "The Baby".
I put her $500 in towards a 340. But still have not got that trigger to match the one on the 342. Have tried at least twice to buy "The Baby" back, but she won't let it go ...
Methinks the Model 642 is a good "carry" option. Not an ultra-light which can put the hurt on the recoil sensitive, yet not too heavy to carry all day. And now most are rated for +Ps. Sounds like if you've not been spoiled by a really good trigger and can wait, you might eventually be able to dry fire that one into being acceptable.
That has been traditionally difficult for me to to get back to being anything but black, but I've not used anything much stiffer than a toothbrush - and lots of repetitions.
Although ya did not mention, the carbon build up on the front of the chambers can sometimes also be next-to-impossible to get back to new. Some of us have found that lots of elbow grease and a pencil eraser helps about a well as anything.
800 rounds on a j-frame trigger (especially the newer ones) ain't much for beginning to smooth one out. Heck, several years ago when they first came out, I dry fired a 342 more than that before taking it to gunsmith to get it tweaked. Then dry fired it some more and shot the hell out of it for a couple of years before a lady student swindled me out of it for $500 and named it "The Baby".
I put her $500 in towards a 340. But still have not got that trigger to match the one on the 342. Have tried at least twice to buy "The Baby" back, but she won't let it go ...
Methinks the Model 642 is a good "carry" option. Not an ultra-light which can put the hurt on the recoil sensitive, yet not too heavy to carry all day. And now most are rated for +Ps. Sounds like if you've not been spoiled by a really good trigger and can wait, you might eventually be able to dry fire that one into being acceptable.