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good looking Temporary patch,

I had a similar situation years ago when I lived in Pasadena. I had lots of those patches under my Pasadena house I discovered when I got around to replacing my line there (that house was built in the late 1930s/early 40s I think) Later I replaced the line with polybutylene (which didn't freeze, but now everyone uses PEX, which is way better)
A continuous roll of one piece of plastic pipe (3/4" is good and easy to connect to meter without a reducer if you have 3/4 galvenized now) will be "faster" than the corroded galvenized pipe and fittings every 20 feet it replaces, feeling like more water pressure. Dad said the shower hurt him (the city the next week replaced their 2" main with a 6" main on our street and it really did hurt)

Anyway TIP: if/when you replace the pipe with plastic (1 roll of PEX and 2 fittings, for meter and house connections- not much more work than you did today except more digging which could be done over time), lay a wire in the trench so it's easy to locate in the future if you need to (with metal detector etc)
... your plumber costs a lot to dig trenches ( I did that in the 1970s, sold plumbing supplies wholesale across Texas and later hired on with a plumbing company and dug trenches for a plumbing company [quit the digging job after 2 weeks])

I don't know the distance from water meter to house, but $70 or so for a 100' of the 3/4 pipe, plus 2 fittings PEX to galvanized... the tough part for me was digging a little every day

PEX may be cheaper elsewhere, I just randomly Googled it, PEX uses the Sharkbite/ProBite fittings
https://www.supplyhouse.com/AquaPEX-Tubing-517000

FAQs on PEX http://www.sharkbite.com/resources/faqs/pex-tubing/

More PEX stuff ( I learned about PEX about a month after redoing LOTS of copper with soldering etc, I called a plumber, they wanted $3,000 and he slipped and said he'd do it with PEX for $3,000 ,,, I soldered the copper myself, but I'm done soldering ... when for $100 I could do it myself with PEX ) ... https://www.google.com/search?client=fi ... U4iILmHzNQ

if you don't use "slip repair couplings" (sharkbite/probite)

without "slip fitting, you'll probably need to use a four-Elbow method, for pvc or soldered copper
more detail on four Ell repair method (PVC example, but the 4-90s method apples to soldering copper etc
info>>> http://diyplumbingadvice.com/pipe/four90s.html

Video explains what order to attach the 4 ells (doing wrong order won't work)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WdYTg3oDKfU

slip fit "bite" "SLIP fitting method" (NOT a coupling)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q7mR2NS03YM

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SZIVueYA6bU

MaduroBU wrote:If you solder it, remember a few things.

1.) Get a bigger torch than you think you'll need. A TS8000 with MAPP gas Heats the pipe faster and makes it easier to heat everything evenly.

2) the pipe cannot be too clean. You need to use emery cloth and/or a wire brush until the pipe surface is as shiny as copper that you just cut. Grind a piece of waste pipe with a dremel tool grinding wheel. THAT'S how shiny you need the pipe to be before you flux it.

3.) Flux anywhere that you want solder to stick. Solder won't stick to pipe that isn't clean and fluxed. Solder won't stay around forever, and will burn away if you're heating the pipe for a full minute trying to get it all hot at once. See point 1.

4.) Use lead free plumbing solder.

MAPP gas (comes in the yellow instead of blue can) Heats the pipe faster

tip: (not withstanding gravity,) solder flows towards the heat source so you'd heat the middle of a fitting instead of the edge of one.

having soldered repairs and using the sharkbite slip fix .... do the slip fix (not copler) because you'll need to slip it onto a section, then slip it bacvk off part way to put the other section back in (that's why the longer repair probite/sharkbite slip coupling instead of tyhe normal short coupling ... and that maneuver is tougher to do with soldering)

If you decide to solder you may need four 90 degree Ells and short sections of pipee between them (or 4 street ells) and in order to get both ends back into couplers on the ends because the existing pipe doesn't shrink or stretch a lot ...

This shows the repair slip fitting ( as well as a valve, but you can use 2 slip repair fittings or a coupler and a slip repair fitting with a short piece of copper or PEX) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sEsqtSA7HsM

Sharkbite is a brand name like probite http://www.probite.com/

you do not want a plain "coupling"
http://www.globalindustrial.com/p/plumb ... nect-34-in

but a specific repair fitting which is a bit longer allowing more "slip"

SharkBite U3016LF Slip Coupling, Push To Connect, 3/4 In
http://www.midlandhardware.com/212940.h ... gJOxfD_BwE

I have a few, but you can get them at Home Depot/Lowes/True Value/Ace easier than driving to where I live