multiple68 wrote:The Annoyed Man wrote:
1. Exactly what model of Leupold scope are you using?
2. How far apart were the two groups, center to center?
3. How many clicks on each of the adjuster knobs did it take to move the second group that far from the first?
Also, one last thing to consider......are you using the scope cranked all the way up to full magnification, and what power of magnification is that? (I'm thinking of parallax errors here....)
1. Leupold VX-2 3-9x40 with the duplex reticle and 1/4 moa finger click adjusters
2. The two groups center to center were about 3 or 4"...both 1.5-2" from bulls eye.
3. I dont remember for sure, but about 10-15
4. Full magnification yes, shooting off a tripod
Will probably do some shooting this weekend...I will try to tap the scope between adjustments and try the over adjust and come back down trick.
One thing you can do is to try and "shoot the box," but that should come
after you get the scope zeroed, not before.
OK, so assuming your scope is properly mounted and secured, and assuming you are shooting at an actual measured 100 yards (not just guesstimated), with 1/4 MOA adjustments, each click should move the point of impact 1/4". One MOA at 100 yards is 1". So 1/4 MOA at 100 yards is 1/4".
FIRST: use a centerfire rifle sighting in target similar to this one:
It doesn't have to be
exactly this one, but there are several that are very much like this, and that's what you want. The small squares with the narrow lines are 1" on a side, so it makes it relatively easy to measure through the scope exactly how far up/down and left/right your fall of shot is away from the bullseye. This is important because your scope has a duplex reticle, and that particular kind of reticle is lacks any kind of stadia lines which provide you some kind of measuring capability built into the reticle.
Milling reticle on left, duplex on the right:
SECOND: be sure to keep track of
exactly how many clicks of windage (left or right) you crank into the side turret, and how many clicks of elevation (up or down) you crank into the top turret. Here's why: if the top left group you mentioned before was centered 2" above and to the left of the bullseye, then 8 clicks to the right, and 8 clicks down
should center the group on the bullseye.
THIRD: A) fire one group of 3 to 4 rounds (I use 4), slowly, giving at least a couple of minutes between shots. You are trying to keep the barrel from heating up too fast. Your first, cold-bore shot represents your rifle's
true accuracy, since in the field, whether you are hunting, plinking, target shooting, or sniping (
especially hunting or sniping) the first round is the one that
has to count. B) let your barrel cool a bit after firing the string, and use the time to count how many squares or fraction of squares you are from the bullseye. Convert those squares to inches, and convert those inches to clicks. Adjust your scope accordingly.
For instance, if your point of impact (POI) is 1.5 squares high and 2.75 squares left of point of aim (POA), then your POI was 1.5 inches high and 2.75" left.
FOURTH: A) turn your elevation knob 6 clicks (6 X 1/4" = 1.5") in the down direction to move your POI down 1.5"; B) turn your windage knob 11 clicks (11 X 1/4" = 2.75") to the right to move your POI 2.75" to the right; C) fire another slow 3-4 round string.
FIFTH: observe the center of the POI for your second string. How far off of the bullseye is it? It
should be spot on, but it might be a 1/4" or so off in either plane. That is fairly insignificant, and I would be happy with that kind of deviation. However, if it is not close enough, repeat steps 3 and 4 until you've got it where you want it. RESIST CHASING THE ZERO to gain that last 1/8-1/4" onto the bullseye. It will never be perfect, and if you start making too many adjustments, you may lose sight of your zero. Once you find your zero, let the barrel cool, and then shoot another group to confirm the zero.
LAST: only after you have zeroed, "shoot the box" using a fresh target. Make no other adjustments than the ones listed here, and let your barrel cool a bit between each group fired. Here's how to do it.
1. confirm the zero shooting a group into the bullseye.
2. move your POI 12 clicks to the right and 12 clicks up. Keeping your crosshairs on the bullseye, fire a group. It should land exactly 3 inches high and 3" to the right of your bullseye. Make no other corrections if it does not, but make a note of how far off it is.
3. move your POI 24 clicks to the left. Keeping your crosshairs on the bullseye, fire another group. It should land exactly 3" high and 3" to the left of your bullseye. Make no other corrections, but make a note of how far off it is.
4. move your POI 24 clicks down. Keeping your crosshairs on the bullseye, fire another group. It should land exactly 3" below and 3" to the left of your bullseye. Make no other corrections, but make a note of how far off it is.
5. move your POI 24" clicks to the right. Keeping your crosshairs on the bullseye, fire another group. It should land exactly 3" below and 3" to the right of your bullseye. Make no other adjustments, but make a note of how far off it is.
6. move your POI 12 clicks to the left and 12 clicks up. Keeping your crosshairs on the bullseye, fire your last group. It should land exactly on the bullseye. Make a note of how far off it is. If it is significantly off, rezero, then confirm your zero with a second group.
look at your notes. You might make a range card which tells you how far off your clicks are from what you expected to produce, and you can use that information when making adjustments in the field.
Once you've finished shooting the box, make sure you set your adjustment knob indicators to "zero" if they have that feature, so that you'll know you are zeroed the next time you shoot the rifle.
“Hard times create strong men. Strong men create good times. Good times create weak men. And, weak men create hard times.”
― G. Michael Hopf, "Those Who Remain"
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