.45 ACP bullets for range and self defense

[kayt00]

I haven't yet but Im thinking that I might just for consistencies sake. Only issue that I've run into when not trimming is that I run a quit a bit of mixed brass and there are different lengths which makes a consistent light crimp difficult.

[Beiruty]

Defense round, HST Or Gold Dots.
Factory round any 230 gr and since you want to reload make sure it is brass. It is now like 25 cents a round get at least 1K round. Save the brass.
For Powder, I use titegroup for 9, 40 and 45. Be careful that the powder is fast and it does not fill up the case. So, you need to be certain there would be no double loads.
I stay away from any powder that is flake type.

[flechero]

Do you folks have to trim your cases very often and after how many reloads? Back when I first started reloading years ago, I was always intimidated by possible feeding issues from cases not trimmed properly. Now I read several people talking of how easy the 45 is to reload.

No, never ever... 45acp brass will actually shorten with use, not grow. Some people will sort their brass by length for consistency or finished load accuracy but it will all be below the book "trim to" length.

Crimp [too much or too little] can cause issues in some guns but that's normally an easy fix.

[K-Texas]

Bullseye will work for range loads. If you want the best practice rounds they really should be same weight/velocity. But having said that, there aren't many loads that are more FUN to shoot than 200 gr. SWCs at around 800 FPS, AKA Bunnyfart loads. I've used quite a lot of WST but have recently switched to Accurate No 2 for fun and games loads.

Most of my handgun powders come from Western Powder Co. since I write some articles for them. For serious defense loads with a good quality JHP like the Gold Dots or XTPs, I tend to use Silhouette for fast 185 gr. loads as well as 200 gr. JHP loads, or you can use Ramshot True Blue. That's what I use for 230 gr. defense loads and for 200 gr loads it will be a matter of which powder works best. Whatever powder you choose it really needs to have a flash deterrent or be naturally low flashing as in the case of True Blue. Another benefit of having True Blue is that it can be used, often with excellent results, in any caliber from .380 ACP up to .454 Casull. It is a spherical (ball-type) propellant that meters exceptionally. I use it for short barrel loads in .357 Mag as well. It easily replaces Unique as the best 1 single powder debate, but that won't last long as your handloading experience increases. Nonetheless, it's a powder I never plan to run out of. Another couple of low flash powders are Hodgdon CFE Pistol and Alliant BE86.

I do not load plated or FMJ bullets except for some plated hollow-points I was sent in relation to an article on .357 Mag loads. I always chose to use hard-cast lead bullets over plated or FMJ. I've never had any problems because I always use bullets that are .001" greater than the barrel's groove dia which is usually .451" where .452" cast will work. The truth is that many of us have used bullets harder than necessary for .45 ACP. With a bullet that's sized .452" with the barrels groove dia being .451", you are assured of a proper seal between the bullet and barrel.

Okay, I realize I'm talking about older techniques because poly-coated lead bullets take most of the worry out of this. And, at least Missouri Bullet Company offers a poly-coated option with 12 BHN hardness. Most others use poly-coating over their existing hard-cast which is usually 16 - 18 BHN. A softer bullet can sometimes offer greater accuracy. In your position, poly-coated RNFPs would serve well for practice loads where you want the same level of recoil. And as mentioned, it's inevitable that you'll want to make Bunnyfart loads where a faster burning powder like Bullseye can be used. For defense loads, think low flash. You will find data for Western Powders that can be downloaded here: http://blog.westernpowders.com/