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Somewhere along I hear people using grease as lube for their 1911s and having good results. Since I seem to be continuously lubing my 1911s (somehow oil don't stick and stay on it very well), I decided to give grease a try (I used this white Lithium based grease that's sold in bicycle stores).

My suggestion to you is: DON'T DO IT.

I geased everywhere I'd put lube on. Since it is hard to get grease inside the pistol, I detail stripped mine, degreased it, and put it everywhere lube is needed.

My gun feels pretty nice afterwards, and the grease stayed on it for weeks. Then I decided to go shoot it... Within 20 shots, the grease was completely black; the gun still cycles well. After 100 rounds, the cycle feel gritty, so I stopped. Removing the grease was much harder than putting it on. In fact, I still have grease inside my MSH (didn't feel like taking it apart).

I'll never do that again.

I use Lubriplate 130 white lithium grease on my 1911 with good results. Also on my Garand, AR-15, and the CZ75B that I carry daily.

You have to apply it and then wipe it off - enough of a film will stay to prevent galling and wear, but not so much it traps particulate and forms an abrasive slurry.

Brake cleaner works to get all the lube and dirt out - take the grips off first, and remember that the brake cleaner will remove all the lube, leaving very clean surfaces that can rust rapidly unless re-lubed.

Regards,
Andrew

Grease on a 1911 is fine if you use it on the slide rails and inside the bushing otherwise, use a good grade of gun oil on all the internals. I like Tetra grease or Militec grease for my guns - - - you can't go wrong with Lubriplate either.

I have been using Rigs gun grease on my 1911's and Glock for years. I feel that it stays on longer than oil that runs off in the heat. I am sure it is in my head but I have over 10,000 rounds through my Colt and no problems.

+1 for Mojo.

Grease is not to be used in the lower end of the 1911. It will gum things up as you discovered.

It works great on the top end though, (frame slide and barrel).

I use "Slide Glide" by Brian Enos, and have had good results with it.

The black color comes from unburned powder and is lubricating in nature (ie: graphite) and doesn't negatively affect the grease (however it looks awful )

Use it on the top and bottom locking lugs on the barrel, bushing, frame and slide rails and the upper locking lugs in the slide. Also, recoil spring, guide rod, etc...

Well, I'm tempted to try again seeing your suggestions.

My attempt above will take some time for me to forget (it was a lot of work to strip, grease, assemble, then degrease twice. I only use SimpleGreen degreaser and it wasn't that effective on the grease maybe a stronger degreaser would have made it easier), but once I forget... but once I forget it, I'll put some grease on the rails and see how things work.

But for now, I'll continue to use Breakfree CLP, which isn't too bad except for its smell and requiring that I reapply after each range session.

Same results for me. Tetra on rails and bushings, and TW25B on all else.

I've used grease with good results. It didn't seem anymore difficult to clean than with other lubes. Of course I clean in only two ways. Run a bore snake through the barrell or detail strip and clean the whole darn thing.

CaptDave wrote:The black color comes from unburned powder and is lubricating in nature (ie: graphite) and doesn't negatively affect the grease (however it looks awful )

You know, it won't look so bad if you just stick with blued guns like normal people. If you must have a stainless gun, at least have the decency to Gunkote it flat black.

But if you want to see *real* nasty, use the khaki Gunkote, then go through a few rounds. Shows every speck of fouling.