Glock internals questions

[A-R]

So I just dissassembled the lower receiver of my 11-year-old Glock 23 for the first time tonight (beyond the basic field strip). A nice guy at the local range showed me how to do it, and recommended checking out http://www.glockparts.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; for more info (very helpful). I bought a "smooth" trigger to replace the stupid serrated "target" trigger that all the compact & subcompact Glocks are shipped with to comply with import regs. Wish I'd known 10 years ago this was such an easy swap.

I bought the new smooth trigger & trigger bar assembly from Brownells.com (only $13). I love their super-fast standard shipping. Also got a nifty little "armorer's tool" that doubles as a filler for the gap in bottom of grip between mag and back of grip.

Anyway, now that I've successfully completed a full dissassembly/reassembly (did the slide last week), I'm trying to decide if I should update anything else. I've used this gun for so long, it feels like an old reliable baseball mitt. So I'm hesitant to change too much. But I am interested in upgrading some areas if they offer a real benefit.

I've done all the "tests" recommended and my recoil spring seems fine after all these years. But I probably am going to order a full set of spare parts/springs for this gun so I have them in case anythings fails. Does anyone use/recommend one of the steel recoil spring guiderods to replace the factory polymer rod?

What about trigger pull changes? I keep hearing how changing to a 3.5-pound connector with a "New York 1" spring will give a 5-pound pull and really improve overall trigger performance? I truly love the standard Glock in every way, grip feels great in my hands (I know,I"m one of the few), even the standard trigger pull works for me (though I'm not sure how many pounds is a standard pull).Are the connector and spring upgrades really beneficial?

I'm a righty, so don't see much need for an ambidextrous mag release. And my slide stop lever functions just fine as a slide release lever (I guess I've just worn it in over the years). So don't see much benefit in the extended slide release).

I just had night sites put on this gun for the first time. Replaced the original factory adjustable sights with some Meprolights - green front, orange rear - really like them so far, but haven't shot the gun yet since adding them. Also recently added a Streamlight TLR-1 light that I keep on the gun when it sits on my bedside table at night.

I've had a Hogue rubber slip on grip for a while, but ditched it recently. Any other recommended upgrades to get a firmer/less-slip grip?

[barres]

I am a fan of Glock's "-" connector. They don't call it a 3.5lb connector anymore, because it doesn't really get the trigger pull down to 3.5lbs, more like 4 - 4.5. I put a steel recoil rod in mine, but that is purely cosmetic, IMHO. And I like the extended slide catch.

I don't like the finger bumps on 3rd Gen Glocks, so I filed them off of mine. Some people have stippled the grip on their Glocks using soldering irons, but I am not that brave.

[rmoraes]

I am a fan of Glock's "-" connector. They don't call it a 3.5lb connector anymore, because it doesn't really get the trigger pull down to 3.5lbs, more like 4 - 4.5. I put a steel recoil rod in mine, but that is purely cosmetic, IMHO. And I like the extended slide catch.

I don't like the finger bumps on 3rd Gen Glocks, so I filed them off of mine. Some people have stippled the grip on their Glocks using soldering irons, but I am not that brave.

B"H

Insted of extended slide, I prefer extended release mag. I'm considering a recoil reducer.

[KFP]

I'm a fan of keeping stock Glock parts in mine - so if it were me, I'd stay away from anything other than a Glock recoil spring assembly. I have the lighter ("-", 3.5) connector in mine with the NY1 trigger spring and like it for carry. It's a heavier pull, which I like for a little extra insurance, but the main reason is that I see (completely unsubstantiated) the NY1 as less likely to fail.

It's hard to improve on perfection.

All of the above is based on the 23 being used for carry, if it's a range gun, it doesn't matter IMO.

[A-R]

I'm a fan of keeping stock Glock parts in mine - so if it were me, I'd stay away from anything other than a Glock recoil spring assembly. I have the lighter ("-", 3.5) connector in mine with the NY1 trigger spring and like it for carry. It's a heavier pull, which I like for a little extra insurance, but the main reason is that I see (completely unsubstantiated) the NY1 as less likely to fail.

It's hard to improve on perfection.

All of the above is based on the 23 being used for carry, if it's a range gun, it doesn't matter IMO.

KFP, does that combo of "-" 3.5 connector and NY1 spring make the pull heavier or lighter than the stock Glock trigger. It was my understanding this would make the overall pull lighter, crisper, and with quicker "reset" for properly executed double-taps and follow up shots. But your description above confuses me a bit. What is the standard out-of-the-box Glock trigger pull? I was thinking it was maybe 7 pounds and the - connector plus NY1 spring lowers that to 5 pounds?

Please correct any of this info you know to be incorrect. Thanks.

[barres]

I'm a fan of keeping stock Glock parts in mine - so if it were me, I'd stay away from anything other than a Glock recoil spring assembly. I have the lighter ("-", 3.5) connector in mine with the NY1 trigger spring and like it for carry. It's a heavier pull, which I like for a little extra insurance, but the main reason is that I see (completely unsubstantiated) the NY1 as less likely to fail.

It's hard to improve on perfection.

All of the above is based on the 23 being used for carry, if it's a range gun, it doesn't matter IMO.

KFP, does that combo of "-" 3.5 connector and NY1 spring make the pull heavier or lighter than the stock Glock trigger. It was my understanding this would make the overall pull lighter, crisper, and with quicker "reset" for properly executed double-taps and follow up shots. But your description above confuses me a bit. What is the standard out-of-the-box Glock trigger pull? I was thinking it was maybe 7 pounds and the - connector plus NY1 spring lowers that to 5 pounds?

Please correct any of this info you know to be incorrect. Thanks.

IIRC, the standard Glock setup is for about a 5.5lb trigger. The "-" connector drops the trigger pull by about a pound or so. The NY1 spring raises the trigger pull to about 8lbs (so +3lbs-ish). I have always heard that combining the two would leave the pull about the same or a little heavier, but that it would break much more crisply. I am passing on what (I think) I have read elsewhere, because I was/am not interested in increasing the trigger weight on my firearms.

[A-R]

IIRC, the standard Glock setup is for about a 5.5lb trigger. The "-" connector drops the trigger pull by about a pound or so. The NY1 spring raises the trigger pull to about 8lbs (so +3lbs-ish). I have always heard that combining the two would leave the pull about the same or a little heavier, but that it would break much more crisply. I am passing on what (I think) I have read elsewhere, because I was/am not interested in increasing the trigger weight on my firearms.

Thanks Barres. So your configuration is the 3.5-pound connector with the standard spring and this drops you from 5.5 pound standard pull to about 4 or 4.5 pounds? Then if you want to go lighter - for competition but not carry - you use the 3.5 connector AND the lighter spring?

In the scenario I mentioned, which part supposedly causes the "crisper" break? The 3.5 connector or the NY1 spring?

edited to add: I think I found the answer to some of my questions here ...

http://glockmeister.com/pages.php?cID=3&pID=25" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

And elsewhere read that the NY1 trigger spring is what gives the "crisper" break - it's a completely different spring design. But I'm with you Barres, I don't want to add to the pull weight of my trigger or make it feel "more like a revolver". I like the Glock trigger feel, but dropping a pound of pressure on the final break point would be nice ... thus the 3.5 connector.

[barres]

IIRC, the standard Glock setup is for about a 5.5lb trigger. The "-" connector drops the trigger pull by about a pound or so. The NY1 spring raises the trigger pull to about 8lbs (so +3lbs-ish). I have always heard that combining the two would leave the pull about the same or a little heavier, but that it would break much more crisply. I am passing on what (I think) I have read elsewhere, because I was/am not interested in increasing the trigger weight on my firearms.

Thanks Barres. So your configuration is the 3.5-pound connector with the standard spring and this drops you from 5.5 pound standard pull to about 4 or 4.5 pounds? Then if you want to go lighter - for competition but not carry - you use the 3.5 connector AND the lighter spring?

In the scenario I mentioned, which part supposedly causes the "crisper" break? The 3.5 connector or the NY1 spring?

edited to add: I think I found the answer to some of my questions here ...

http://glockmeister.com/pages.php?cID=3&pID=25" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

And elsewhere read that the NY1 trigger spring is what gives the "crisper" break - it's a completely different spring design. But I'm with you Barres, I don't want to add to the pull weight of my trigger or make it feel "more like a revolver". I like the Glock trigger feel, but dropping a pound of pressure on the final break point would be nice ... thus the 3.5 connector.

There is no lighter spring. Glock developed the "-" connector for use in their competition models (17L, 34, & 35). Using only factory parts, you can't get lighter than a "-" connector with the standard spring. Some will argue that a lighter trigger will get you more scrutiny if you ever have to use your pistol in self-defense, but, in Texas, that won't matter, as long as you were justified to use deadly force. I am much less likely to jerk the trigger and miss my intended target with the lighter trigger, so that is how mine is set up. I don't want to unintentionally hit an innocent bystander, after all!

[KFP]

Sorry I was late for the party, but it sounds like you got all of the right info. I was thinking of the Glockmeister chart that you found as I was reading your question.

The pull is heavier than stock, it just feels a little more consistent, with a crisp break.

[A-R]

Sorry I was late for the party, but it sounds like you got all of the right info. I was thinking of the Glockmeister chart that you found as I was reading your question.

The pull is heavier than stock, it just feels a little more consistent, with a crisp break.

Wish someone would make a spring like the NY1 that gave the "crisper break" without the added weight to the pull. Oh well, I'll probably try the 3.5 connector alone and see how I like it.

Thanks for all the help guys.

[tateb24]

This is just my opionion, No reason to change anything in a Glock. Everything is there for a reason. I have seen a few "customized" Glocks out there, ie..titianium striker kits, other "trigger sets". While some of the connectors might be helpful, I would just leave it alone. Nights Sights are about the only thing you would add that would help increase the value, but anything else is just useless.
A LEO gave me this advice, he was a former Special Forces operator and said a Glock is about the most reliable thing straight from the factory and any kind of customization is just for fun. He even taught me how to shoot at the range, he showed me how to shoot out bullseyes with my Glock 19 at 25 yards. Just my two cents.

[CompVest]

tateb24

I think you are right on! The majority of Glock failures (other than the Glock magazine puke) I have seen have come from Glocks that have been modified.

[jbirds1210]

Using only factory parts, you can't get lighter than a "-" connector with the standard spring.

Well.....I suppose, but you can clip some coils off of the striker spring and make the trigger much lighter. I have done it, but would never do it with a duty/carry gun. FWIW, I have never had a light strike due to this modification. Never change more than one thing at a time and it will be easy to figure out exactly what parts/mods work and those that don't.

Jason

[jbirds1210]

The majority of Glock failures (other than the Glock magazine puke) I have seen have come from Glocks that have been modified.

I have heard of this happening and can't wait to see it in person......hilarious! I bet it makes for an interesting reload.

Jason

[CompVest]

Well it is quite funny to those watching! Not so much to the one being puked on!