Cannon Gun Safe Won't Open: Update

[puma guy]

After all of this my wife says the safe made funny beep sounds. Changed the battery's and all is well.

[gljjt]

I have called Cannon safe several time and waited anywhere from a minimum of 45 minutes to as long as 1hr and 40 minutes without reaching anyone in customer service. There is some good news, though. We had Christmas this weekend for our two daughter's families that live out of town and my middle daughter suggested letting her husband attempt to open the safe. He tried several times with out success. He walked out of the room to load up to go home, so I thought I'd give it another try. After my second unsuccessful attempt I banged on the door with my fist. Tried the combination one more time and Wha! Lah! it caught on the stop and I got it open. Keep in mind I have beat on the door and dial with an rubber mallet and even a hammer with dense rubber mat to protect the door with no success! Should have used my fist I guess! LOL Now I have to decide if I'm going to close the safe and use the key lock on the dial that locks between the zero and the stop at #90 that allows the spoke wheel to open the bolts. The back of the safe door has fuzzy cloth covered sheetrock held in place with black plastic plugs of the kind used to hold auto door panels on. I'll have to get a tool at the auto supply to remove them in able access the lock to see if lubricating it will help. Even if I get it oiled I still don't think I'll trust the lock and I want to get in touch with Cannon, though to see if they can provide a new lock or perhaps an electronic set up. I'm hoping there's just a lot of post Christmas calls causing the long delays in reaching customer service.

Glad you got it open. Harbor Freight has the tool called "push pin" pliers. I would blow out any dirt if you can get to the lock mechanism with those cans of compressed air and maybe consider spraying with CRC contact cleaner or those small cans of lock lubricant they sell at Lowes. Don't do WD40. Try the lock multiple times while the safe is open. I have an electronic safe which has a key backup if needed. Never had any problems, just change the battery's every few years (always use Duracell).

Doesn't the key make the safe less secure? My key only locks the dial, it doesn't "unlock" the safe. I would think the key would be easy to pick with minimal skill.

[puma guy]

I have called Cannon safe several time and waited anywhere from a minimum of 45 minutes to as long as 1hr and 40 minutes without reaching anyone in customer service. There is some good news, though. We had Christmas this weekend for our two daughter's families that live out of town and my middle daughter suggested letting her husband attempt to open the safe. He tried several times with out success. He walked out of the room to load up to go home, so I thought I'd give it another try. After my second unsuccessful attempt I banged on the door with my fist. Tried the combination one more time and Wha! Lah! it caught on the stop and I got it open. Keep in mind I have beat on the door and dial with an rubber mallet and even a hammer with dense rubber mat to protect the door with no success! Should have used my fist I guess! LOL Now I have to decide if I'm going to close the safe and use the key lock on the dial that locks between the zero and the stop at #90 that allows the spoke wheel to open the bolts. The back of the safe door has fuzzy cloth covered sheetrock held in place with black plastic plugs of the kind used to hold auto door panels on. I'll have to get a tool at the auto supply to remove them in able access the lock to see if lubricating it will help. Even if I get it oiled I still don't think I'll trust the lock and I want to get in touch with Cannon, though to see if they can provide a new lock or perhaps an electronic set up. I'm hoping there's just a lot of post Christmas calls causing the long delays in reaching customer service.

Glad you got it open. Harbor Freight has the tool called "push pin" pliers. I would blow out any dirt if you can get to the lock mechanism with those cans of compressed air and maybe consider spraying with CRC contact cleaner or those small cans of lock lubricant they sell at Lowes. Don't do WD40. Try the lock multiple times while the safe is open. I have an electronic safe which has a key backup if needed. Never had any problems, just change the battery's every few years (always use Duracell).

Doesn't the key make the safe less secure? My key only locks the dial, it doesn't "unlock" the safe. I would think the key would be easy to pick with minimal skill.

The key to lock the dial is for convenience if you are entering the safe multiple times, while being able to close it. But locking the dial leaves the safe in a vulnerable state since the wheels and lever are in the unlocked position. That said the key for an electronic lock safe is to be able to open it if the electronic access fails. I guess if a thief was clever they could maybe pick it, which leaves it less secure than a dial lock I suppose.

[rotor]

Doesn't the key make the safe less secure? My key only locks the dial, it doesn't "unlock" the safe. I would think the key would be easy to pick with minimal skill.

The key is like 7 inches long and only the first part of it is an actual key. Seems like it would be hard to pick.

[Ruark]

This is all making me nervous. We will probably be investing in a good safe soon, and I've always been leery of newfangled electronic mechanisms. Connections fail, batteries die, wires come loose, etc. I always assumed a mechanical device is more reliable. After reading this, though, I'm not so sure. What about other brands, like Liberty?

[rotor]

This is all making me nervous. We will probably be investing in a good safe soon, and I've always been leery of newfangled electronic mechanisms. Connections fail, batteries die, wires come loose, etc. I always assumed a mechanical device is more reliable. After reading this, though, I'm not so sure. What about other brands, like Liberty?

Mine is SentrySafe from Academy. Electronic with backup keys if needed. I am very happy with it. 4 AA battery's (go Duracell) every couple of years. Easy to work and has never failed me. You can spend a lot of money on a safe but I wanted something that stored a lot, was reasonably hard for a crook to cart away, kids can't get in and easy for me to open FAST. Dial safes are just too slow to open.

[ELB]

This is all making me nervous. We will probably be investing in a good safe soon, and I've always been leery of newfangled electronic mechanisms. Connections fail, batteries die, wires come loose, etc. I always assumed a mechanical device is more reliable. After reading this, though, I'm not so sure. What about other brands, like Liberty?

I recommend you go read what this guy has to say about gun safes, especially locks:

https://gunsafereviewsguy.com

[tbrown]

Locks keep honest people honest.

[Excaliber]

Fort Knox offers safes with both electronic and mechanical combination locks on the same unit for bulletproof redundancy.

They cost a little more, but the cost difference would be more than eaten up if you have call in a safe expert to open your safe.

I would suggest having a local safe service guy service your lock while the safe is open. That is much cheaper than having to drill it open and you'll be sure the fix will be done right.

Do not oil a combination lock. The oil will eventually thicken and cause the kind of problem you've described.

[puma guy]

Fort Knox offers safes with both electronic and mechanical combination locks on the same unit for bulletproof redundancy.

They cost a little more, but the cost difference would be more than eaten up if you have call in a safe expert to open your safe.

I would suggest having a local safe service guy service your lock while the safe is open. That is much cheaper than having to drill it open and you'll be sure the fix will be done right.

Do not oil a combination lock. The oil will eventually thicken and cause the kind of problem you've described.

Strangely Cannon recommends lubricating. I used to use powdered graphite on key locks, perhaps that's what Cannon was referring to. I am going to call a locksmith when my electronic lock arrives and I'll see what problem he discovers with my existing dial before I have him install the new lock.

[Excaliber]

Fort Knox offers safes with both electronic and mechanical combination locks on the same unit for bulletproof redundancy.

They cost a little more, but the cost difference would be more than eaten up if you have call in a safe expert to open your safe.

I would suggest having a local safe service guy service your lock while the safe is open. That is much cheaper than having to drill it open and you'll be sure the fix will be done right.

Do not oil a combination lock. The oil will eventually thicken and cause the kind of problem you've described.

Strangely Cannon recommends lubricating. I used to use powdered graphite on key locks, perhaps that's what Cannon was referring to. I am going to call a locksmith when my electronic lock arrives and I'll see what problem he discovers with my existing dial before I have him install the new lock.

Graphite is OK and I figure that lubes that leave a dry film behind would be OK too. I would suggest staying away from anything that leaves a wet surface once the carrier has evaporated (e.g. WD40)

[puma guy]

Fort Knox offers safes with both electronic and mechanical combination locks on the same unit for bulletproof redundancy.

They cost a little more, but the cost difference would be more than eaten up if you have call in a safe expert to open your safe.

I would suggest having a local safe service guy service your lock while the safe is open. That is much cheaper than having to drill it open and you'll be sure the fix will be done right.

Do not oil a combination lock. The oil will eventually thicken and cause the kind of problem you've described.

Strangely Cannon recommends lubricating. I used to use powdered graphite on key locks, perhaps that's what Cannon was referring to. I am going to call a locksmith when my electronic lock arrives and I'll see what problem he discovers with my existing dial before I have him install the new lock.

Graphite is OK and I figure that lubes that leave a dry film behind would be OK too. I would suggest staying away from anything that leaves a wet surface once the carrier has evaporated (e.g. WD40)

I wouldn't put WD40 on a gun unless it had been submerged or out in a downpour; nor on anything with moving parts for lubrication. To put any lubricant on the lock mechanical lock in a safe would require removing the re-lock plate and lock cover to access the wheels and lever. I watched a S&G mecahnical lock replacement video and the tech didn't lubricate or suggest lubricant on any part of the lock mechanism. I'm going to ask the locksmith if lubrication is part of the maintenance they do on safe locks.

[PriestTheRunner]

This is all making me nervous. We will probably be investing in a good safe soon, and I've always been leery of newfangled electronic mechanisms. Connections fail, batteries die, wires come loose, etc. I always assumed a mechanical device is more reliable. After reading this, though, I'm not so sure. What about other brands, like Liberty?

I recommend you go read what this guy has to say about gun safes, especially locks:

https://gunsafereviewsguy.com

Additionally: https://gunsafereviewsguy.com/articles/ ... rotection/

Seriously, you guys need to read this. I WON'T be buying an additional gun safe when we build the new house. I'll be getting a real safe, bolted to the floor, with walls or poured concrete concealing the bolts. Gun safes (mine included) are apparently a joke.

[johncanfield]

We just finished a major house addition and remodeling project. One of my design criteria was providing for a gun safe, after reading about the vulnerability of gun safes I made alternate arrangements.

[TreyHouston]

John, thats the best and easiest way to do it! Good job!