safe

[Stupid]

I actually want to put a alarm inside the safe. if moved, it will just go nuts. also a tape recorder saying: "you now have 15 minutes to leave the building..."

*laugh

BTW, those hole(s) you see...I suppose you could rig a light system in there, but I used the one hole I had to run a dehumidifier rod electrical cord into a nearby wall socket...

I used these sticky back push on/off battery powered lights to light the inside when I needed a bit more light...

Just a suggestion...

[Mithras61]

Thank you so much, GC. I live in an apartment, second floor, no elavator. Space is a BIG problem. I do want to get a safe before I get more guns as you suggested.

Do all safes come with a hole in the back where I can plug in a lamp?

BTW, those hole(s) you see...I suppose you could rig a light system in there, but I used the one hole I had to run a dehumidifier rod electrical cord into a nearby wall socket...

I used these sticky back push on/off battery powered lights to light the inside when I needed a bit more light...

Just a suggestion...

Why not just run a power strip through the hole, and plug in whatever you want?

Just a thought...

[arthurcw]

I’m in a similar pickle. I rent a home and can’t really justify the space for a Big Daddy safe. My other problem is that renting, I can’t secure the safe to the Slab. Here’s what I’ve decided to go with.

http://www.academy.com/index.php?page=c ... 03031-4211

http://www.sentrysafe.com/products/prod ... aspx?s=141

Now these DO NOT have holes in the back but I’m pretty sure that I can supply my own holes with a rental drill and some patience. I’ll need the holes to Lag Bolt the thing to the wall studs.

Sentry lists this at 227 pounds. Academy lists them a bit heftier. My guess is that Academy is counting the shipping weight not the weight of the safe itself. My hope is that with it Lag Bolted to the studs in a hard to get tools to area with a “few pounds� of guns and ammo in it, it will not be a quick carry case.

But I’m also looking at alarms. Sadly, My LL is not into letting me install a system so I’m looking at Lasershield. I know it has a BUNCH of holes in its design, but it’s the best I can do. My hope is the combo of the Alarm and the Safe as installed will keep all but the most determined thieves out.

[hi-power]

http://www.academy.com/index.php?page=c ... 03031-4211

http://www.sentrysafe.com/products/prod ... aspx?s=141

Hey, that's a pretty good price break from Academy vs. Sentry. A couple of lag bolts into studs should be plenty to keep that thing rooted.

[ghentry]

I too have been shopping safes lately and although I'd much rather buy one of the larger ones, my home's floorplan really won't accomodate one. There is really not a decent place to put one on the first floor, unless I put it in the garage, which I'm not keen on. Also, with the configuration of my staircase, there is no way I'm going to try and get 500+ pounds of safe upstairs. I believe I've finally decided to just go with several smaller safes around the house.

I have a coat closet that has an opening of just 1/2" more than the width of that 10-gun Sentry model. I'm planning on putting it in the closet and seeing if I can lag bolt it into the studs. There would be just enough room to open the door, but not enough room to get any leverage on the safe to pry it out of the wall.

Does anyone have any idea how hard it will be to drill through the back of that safe?

[Mike1951]

I have a coat closet that has an opening of just 1/2" more than the width of that 10-gun Sentry model. I'm planning on putting it in the closet and seeing if I can lag bolt it into the studs. There would be just enough room to open the door, but not enough room to get any leverage on the safe to pry it out of the wall.

It worked very well for a friend of mine.

Some safes can be opened by peeling the skin of the body. Others can be opened by drilling at the end of one of the pins and using a hammer and punch to force the pins to retract. You will have made both of these methods more difficult by installing it in the closet.

Still not sure how difficult access would be through the door, though.

Does anyone have any idea how hard it will be to drill through the back of that safe?

It won't be extremely difficult. At most, you may need a titanium nitride or cobalt bit. Usually, the only hardened steel is in the area of the locking mechanism.

[ScubaSigGuy]

http://www.texasshooting.com/TexasCHL_F ... highlight=
Check out this post for all of the great information the memebers provided me when I asked a similar question.

[KB5AKO]

Whenever I purchased my safe, this place had the best deal in Houston.
They were reasonable in price. I suggest you go with a mechanical locking mechanism that has a lifetime warranty. Do not get a safe that is light enough to be carried off! Mine is a hair under 1000 pounds and is bolted to the foundation. I am not affiliated with this dealer nor the manufacturer; I'm just a satisfied customer. Oh, and one more thing. My safe is not in a front room. I have it in a spare bedroom, and traded off the glossy finish for a granite finish and better fire protection. And, in closing I will say that safes are like storage buildings. You will want more space in due time. Get the biggest and baddest that you can afford!

Victor, KB5AKO


Lone Star Gun & Safes
1020 FM 1960 W. #4
Houston, TX 77090
Tel: (281) 866-8888
Fax: (281) 866-7175

http://www.lonestargunsafe.com

http://championsafe.com/

[stevie_d_64]

I have a coat closet that has an opening of just 1/2" more than the width of that 10-gun Sentry model. I'm planning on putting it in the closet and seeing if I can lag bolt it into the studs. There would be just enough room to open the door, but not enough room to get any leverage on the safe to pry it out of the wall.

It worked very well for a friend of mine.

Some safes can be opened by peeling the skin of the body. Others can be opened by drilling at the end of one of the pins and using a hammer and punch to force the pins to retract. You will have made both of these methods more difficult by installing it in the closet.

Still not sure how difficult access would be through the door, though.

Does anyone have any idea how hard it will be to drill through the back of that safe?

It won't be extremely difficult. At most, you may need a titanium nitride or cobalt bit. Usually, the only hardened steel is in the area of the locking mechanism.

Well if you get a safe that is constructed or designed with thin bendable sheets of thin gauge metal, sure that would be a breeze to get into...Don't even have to mess with the door or heaven forbid external hinges...

I believe that my safe will keep those items in there safe from theft in most instances from the skills of the average, and above average burgler...I would not have bought it it gave me the slightest concern...

And the time involved with even getting to the point of getting in it would defy the timeline in how fast my nosey and very alert neighbors are when they know we are not there...

I always let one or more of them know about vacations and other times we will be a way for a while...They do the same for us...

So a layered defense and watchful friends keep the odds in our favor...

Ohh...

And someone mentioned about holes and the like to run dehumidifiers, and lights/alarm systems and all that...That those holes run the risk of allowing fire to sneek in and damage/destroy items in the safe...

I run one cord through the one hole I have in the back of mine...It was small enough that I have to splice the wall connector to the wire after I ran it, and the hole itself I sealed with as much flame retardant material I could fill the gaps with...

In the worse fires I have ever fought in my time in the local VFD's, stranger things have survived with very little or no protection from combustion...

So even the safes that may not have a very good fire protection rating do better than nothing...

[stevie_d_64]

Whenever I purchased my safe, this place had the best deal in Houston.
They were reasonable in price. I suggest you go with a mechanical locking mechanism that has a lifetime warranty. Do not get a safe that is light enough to be carried off! Mine is a hair under 1000 pounds and is bolted to the foundation. I am not affiliated with this dealer nor the manufacturer; I'm just a satisfied customer. Oh, and one more thing. My safe is not in a front room. I have it in a spare bedroom, and traded off the glossy finish for a granite finish and better fire protection. And, in closing I will say that safes are like storage buildings. You will want more space in due time. Get the biggest and baddest that you can afford!

Victor, KB5AKO


Lone Star Gun & Safes
1020 FM 1960 W. #4
Houston, TX 77090
Tel: (281) 866-8888
Fax: (281) 866-7175

http://www.lonestargunsafe.com

http://championsafe.com/

This last Christmas I was up at the Jewelry Source, which is right next door to these guys I believe...

I went in there to check it out, and they have a pretty good line-up of models to choose from...

I also found out they have a delivery and installation service which will go pretty much anywhere to deliver, even out of state...

So I believe they are a good company to consider for your business...

I was impressed, and I wasn't even in the market...But I will consider it when we move in the future, for this one safe we have to move...

[7GenTex]

Give this a read before you make a decision.

http://www.6mmbr.com/gunsafes.html

And most of what are called "safes" - aren't.
Most are "Residential Security Containers" - if that even.

A good concrete circular saw will rip right thru 10 ga. "safe" walls.

Have other security functions in place.

An old rule of thumb is to not have the value of the "safe" contents exceed the price of the "safe".

[cloudcroft]

ANY safe is in danger from that kind of equipment...or a plasma cutter, etc. We could go on and on but it's futile.

10 gauge is fine for most of us who can't afford 10-20 grand for a REAL safe.

For us, anything from a Sentry up to a Ft. Knox "Yeager" series will have to do.

But I'd stay away from those sheet-metal "school gym locker" types though.

-- John D.

[7GenTex]

I can't afford $10k for a "safe" either -

Just wanted to emphasize they aren't as "safe" as some think.

Always have layers of protection..not just the safe.

O.K. - I'll quit putting quotes around safe now

[KBCraig]

If anyone breaks into your home with the express purpose of stealing your guns, they will have the knowledge and equipment to get your guns.

Gun safes will only defeat thieves of opportunity. They make sure that a casual burglar can't use the tools he finds in your garage, to peel open your safe.

My personal plan, when I'm able to build or modify a house to my specs, is to have a hardened vault. Something nice and cozy as a den... say, 14x20. The guns will be in racks, or displayed if I like. There will be work benches and a reloading station. Probably a TV, comfortable seating, and adult beverages for the trusted few who know of its existence.

Entry will be disguised: a burglar in my basement would open a door, see a dingy boiler/air handler room, and go on his way. But if he'd bother to step inside, he'd see what was behind the open door: another door, behind which is the vault door.

It's all about deception.

Kevin

[HankB]

I'm not a safe expert by any means, but my impressions are . . .

1. The relatively lightweight (<100 lbs) safes with things like Medeco key locks are a bit more secure than a gym locker. They'll keep little kids out and prevent casual access from curious teens, but they won't stop a couple of high-schoolers who make a determined effort to get in and don't mind damaging it in the process.

2. The next step up includes safes from Browning, Cannon, Ft. Knox, etc. These are more secure and will stop a "snatch and grab" burglary; some have a degree of fire protection as well. Usually secured with an S&G lock, they'll have 10ga or so bodies and varying degrees of reinforcement on the door. Despite the cost differential, I don't think that in a practical sense, there's any difference at all in the security they offer; someone who comes prepared to break into an $800 Cannon safe will get into a $2000 Ft. Knox in pretty much the same length of time.

3. The "professional" safes weigh a lot more, and are a lot more expen$ive. I'll leave it to the professionals to judge their security.