Still having problems with Dads WASR pics added.

[asleepatthereel]

Does anyone have a good contact at Century Arms? I tried emailing them through their website, but the emails came back. Forgot to try calling them today.

Well Dad and I went on a little outing to PSC Friday to sight in a couple deer rifles, and just have a bit of fun throwing some lead downrange. We both bought our WASRs out. As some may remember he was having problems with his jamming on him. What happens is the rifle loads a round and is in battery. once fired, the bolt comes back about 1/4" and locks up tight. Luckily I bought along a short piece of 2x4, because we actually had to beat the charging handle down to eject the spent round. Like all the other times, there was a semi-circular mark like a 'smiley' on the case about 1/8" up from the rim.

Since we had two identical WASRs, we started swapping parts. the best we could manage was two shots using my bolt befor it jammed up again.

Well, we laid the two broken down recievers next to each other, and how I missed this before I dont know, but it appears that a "lug" in the forward part of the reciever has been cut down on his. I took pictures, but forgot my memory card at home, so I cant post them tonight. I just thought maybe someone else may have experienced this problem and came up with a fix. The "lug" is on the right hand side of the reciever inside and just behind the chamber. I know some WASRs were converted from single stack mags to hi caps, and Im thinking that the factory may have accidentaly cut tis part off, as its a pretty thick peice and I cant imagine it breaking off so cleanly.

Between the two rifles, that is the only visible difference between the two. Mine will shoot anything I feed it, as fast as I can pull the trigger. I have a red dot, and emptied two thirty round magazines at a man sized target at 100 yards, and the wood was smoking up front when I was done. Out of the sixty rounds, 42 found their mark, and the rest were on the paper.

Makes me feel bad, because I bought this rifle for my Dad because someone had made a cherry wood stock for it, and he really liked it. I know this thing will shoot, but I dont have much hair left trying to figure it out.

Sorry for the rant, but if someone can give me a good email for Century Arms, or a number for a good gunsmith that knows AKs, I would really appreciate the info.

Thanks Yall
-Don

[asleepatthereel]

Here is a comparison of the two recievers. The bottom one is mine and fires fine.

[asleepatthereel]

Here is mine. It has no problems whatsoever. The matchstick points to the lug that is not there on my dads.

[asleepatthereel]

This is my dads WASR. Note the lug has either broken off, or was cut short at the factory. Like I said this is the only visible difference between the two rifles. I have no idea if this is the problem or not, or if it is the problem, if it can be fixed by a good gunsmith. Also note that the chamber is very clean. I used a dremmel with some fine emory cloth to polish it, thinking that may have been the problem.

[asleepatthereel]

I must be getting old, or maybe its my poor camera skills, but I see a few other things different looking at the screen. For instance, I never noticed the trigger springs were on the opposite sides.

[jroberts1968]

Take a picture from the top side by side very top

DO NOT SWAP PARTS BETWEEN AK's WITH OUT CHECKING HEADSPACE. This could have been a very very bad situation man, with the way that lug appears your are real Lucky. Ak's are not like AR's in thay need to be HEAD SPACED.

Check the parts on your dads rifle, Bolt, Bolt Carrier Receiver., and the Front trunnon. Make sure they are correct and numbers match. I would do this on yours now since you swapped the parts around. Yes the WASR does import as a single stack 10 round rifle, CIA then has the lower receiver milled open to accept 30 round magazines. They would not touch that lug in doing this process. What stamppings does the receiver have? What yearis the rifle stammped with. Stopped shooting the rifle. If all else you may need to replace the front trunnon and re head space and you will be good to go or it may need to be re head spaced and you may be good to go. Since the Crougur Plant stooped AK production for imports to attain NATO Status it will be hard pressed to get help out of CIA. A used trunnon is about 35-50 bucks then you need to demill re-rivet and then head space the rifle and it will be good.

Jim

[asleepatthereel]

Update:

Headspace does seem real loose on the jammer when compared to mine. I called Centurys 'customer service' and talked to a guy that really didnt sound like he knew much about the rifles. I sent the same pictures I posted here to him via email, and he could only say that it appears the lug may be the problem. Really?

He then went on to give me a phone number of one of the guys that works there that supposedly has a business on the side, that I could call. He seemed to know more than the first guy did, but heres the rub; He said to send the rifle to him in Vermont, and that I didnt need to go through a FFL to send it via FedEx because it wasnt going to be a sale, only a repair. Im a little rusty on the laws concerning shipping long guns. If its a rapair job, and not a sale, does it need to be shipped through a FFL? The only time I have ever shipped a gun, it was a revolver I had sold on Gunbroker. I had to get a copy of the othe parties FFL to ship it. Whats the scoop?

[shooter4]

Jim Fuller http://www.rifledynamics.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;. He is in Las Vegas and is the AK man. A good guy and very honest. Send him your gun and it will come back working.....I would CALL Century Arms here in Florida as well as email. And send those two pictures. They should make good on it.......
http://www.centuryarms.com/?page_id=26" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; for phone numbers.....good luck. I would buy a kit though and let Jim Fuller make you a dream AK. I have one coming in a few weeks.............worth the money..........

[jroberts1968]

Update:

Headspace does seem real loose on the jammer when compared to mine. I called Centurys 'customer service' and talked to a guy that really didnt sound like he knew much about the rifles. I sent the same pictures I posted here to him via email, and he could only say that it appears the lug may be the problem. Really?

He then went on to give me a phone number of one of the guys that works there that supposedly has a business on the side, that I could call. He seemed to know more than the first guy did, but heres the rub; He said to send the rifle to him in Vermont, and that I didnt need to go through a FFL to send it via FedEx because it wasnt going to be a sale, only a repair. Im a little rusty on the laws concerning shipping long guns. If its a rapair job, and not a sale, does it need to be shipped through a FFL? The only time I have ever shipped a gun, it was a revolver I had sold on Gunbroker. I had to get a copy of the othe parties FFL to ship it. Whats the scoop?

If you want to send it up here to Dallas or bring it up your self I will help you fix it. I have built many AK's and have the correct tools to repair it. I sent you a PM with my number.

[WarHawk-AVG]

Canted gas block
From glocktalk

So back in late september, fearful of the probability of an Obama presidency, I purchased a WASR-10 from a local gun store, 450$ OTD. Unfortunately, I wasn't able to take it out for a practice run until just a week ago. I am kinda unhappy with my purchase, because upon a serious cleaning and then a shooting session, I have discovered several defects in construction and functioning.

First off, the front sight has a slight, yet perceptible cant. That was the only thing I noticed after a thourough cleaning. I was a bit upset over that, but everyone on GT seems to think that is a minor issue, and one that can be easily remediated. I cannot tell if the gas tube has any cant to it, so it may be there, but if it is, it is slight.

Upon a trip to the range, however, was when the real problems emerged. The first shot went off fine, but the rifle immediately jammed as the second round chambered. After much tugging on the charging lever, the round came free, and I resumed firing at a target about 50 meters out. While the accuracy was acceptable, the rifle continued to jam as I fired it. not every shot, but VERY frequently, every fourth or so shot. the rounds would partially chamber with the bolt almost entirely forward, but then the action of the rifle would lock up, and only with exertion of force would I be able to eject the unfired shell. Much fussin' and cussin' ensued, with the rifle being feild stripped there at the range table multiple times as I tried to figure out what was wrong with it. Evidently, wear on the gas piston and bolt carrier show that it may be "rubbing raw" and hanging up in two places. There is some wear on the end of the gas piston, that may show it is hanging up at the muzzle end of the gas tube, and there is wear at the right side of the bolt carrier where the gas piston screws in, possibly hanging up on the metal block directly under the rear sights. (I hope my nomenclature is correct here.)

In addition to this, what really alarmed me, was that the pin that holds the trigger group in began to walk out to the left of the reciever. It never got entirely free, but the trigger started to feel wonky, and that is how I discoved what was happening. It would wiggle out of the hole on the right side of the reciever, but could be kept in place by keeping my finger on the opposite (left) side, keeping it pushe in- which did not result in the most comfortable way to hold the rifle.

So, all in all, a darn frustrating day at the range that made me feel like I had bought a lemon. I would be tempted to try and sell it, and while I could now get at least what I paid for it, to upgrade to a Vector or Lancaster or something simmilar, is out of the question for me financially. Also, I am fearful of what will happen after the coronation, oops, I meant inauguration, and so I am reluctant to bet on my future chances of getting something else. I feel, for better or worse, that I am stuck with this rifle. To replace it I need time and money, and both are in short supply right now.

So how do I fix this stuff? Obviously, a new FCG is in order. Will a Tapco set fix the problem of the walikng pin?

Will the problems with the gas piston and jamming just solve itself by shooting more and breaking in, or is this symptomatic of a canted gas tube as well as front sight base? Is the metal erosion a cause for serious concern? What parts would I buy to correct these issues?

Do I need a gunsmith to fix this stuff? I can tackle replacing a FCG, but I don't have even the most rudimentary shop, much less a vise or advanced tools. And I am not confident enough of my skills to tackle removing or straightening my front sight base or gas tube. I am not a mechanically inclined person, and I have in the past broken things worse than they were before I tried to "fix" them. :crying:

Can anyone recommend a good AK gunsmith in the greater Charlotte NC area?

Thanks for reading this long post, and I thank you in advance for your help

I can't get to the site..but the fix was disassemble the rifle, stick the gas block in a vice, get biggest screwdriver you can find, hork over on it till it rotates those tiny few degrees to be straight...its an AK after all, they were designed to be built by drunk monkeys and repaired and maintained by uneducated peasants!
http://www.thehighroad.us/showthread.php?t=295197" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

here was the original tutorial..but I can't into it
http://www.gunsnet.net/Linx310/gascantfix.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://www.sksboards.com/smf/index.php? ... ic=33084.0" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

P.S. When in doubt..go to the source!
http://www.ak-47.net/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;