Some dealers that sell safes have people that they use to deliver safes that are too heavy for the customer.
First, I would ask the Academy store manager if they have anyone they use. Someone like Carter Country sells safes but isn't in the delivery business. They might provide you with contact info if you ask. I wouldn't tell them I was buying a new safe from someone else, but maybe you have one that you need moved.
The drawbacks are that they are likely not bonded or insured and the rate may still be around the $200 figure you mentioned.
Still, it can't hurt to ask.
Search found 2 matches
- Sat Feb 24, 2007 10:05 pm
- Forum: General Gun, Shooting & Equipment Discussion
- Topic: safe
- Replies: 61
- Views: 9590
- Thu Feb 22, 2007 5:41 pm
- Forum: General Gun, Shooting & Equipment Discussion
- Topic: safe
- Replies: 61
- Views: 9590
It worked very well for a friend of mine.ghentry wrote:I have a coat closet that has an opening of just 1/2" more than the width of that 10-gun Sentry model. I'm planning on putting it in the closet and seeing if I can lag bolt it into the studs. There would be just enough room to open the door, but not enough room to get any leverage on the safe to pry it out of the wall.
Some safes can be opened by peeling the skin of the body. Others can be opened by drilling at the end of one of the pins and using a hammer and punch to force the pins to retract. You will have made both of these methods more difficult by installing it in the closet.
Still not sure how difficult access would be through the door, though.
It won't be extremely difficult. At most, you may need a titanium nitride or cobalt bit. Usually, the only hardened steel is in the area of the locking mechanism.ghentry wrote:Does anyone have any idea how hard it will be to drill through the back of that safe?