Search found 4 matches

by The Annoyed Man
Fri Nov 12, 2010 9:18 am
Forum: Rifles & Shotguns
Topic: needin help choosing a rifle/caliber
Replies: 32
Views: 4947

Re: needin help choosing a rifle/caliber

glock27 wrote:well i went around to a few shops walmart and academy and held a remington 700, very nice, no scope for under $350 (i forgot the exact price. i also held a weatherby which i beleive was the bottom end weatherby and the guy behind the counter told me their is not a lot of aftermarket for weatherby which turned me off to WBY. then i went to walmart and held a savage with scope for $369 3-9X40?, i like the fact that the savage already has a scope VS getting the remington 700 and having to add a scope but from what ive read on this forum factory scopes are nothing to brag about. i dont mind getting a remington 700 then adding a scope. which way would you go? im not sure exactly what "accutrigger" and free float barrel means eigther....

most rifles are eigther 22" or 24" does the extra 2" make any difference? id rather have the 24" as i would imagine it would be more accurate.

remington 700(no scope) VS savage with scope? both under $370
both synthetic stocks i saw a remington wooden 700 for 569$ i tihnk ill stick with the synthetic.

thanks in advance....
G27
I'll address these things individually, based on our experience with having both a Remington 700 and a Savage 10FP in the safe...

Accutrigger:
  • The Accutrigger system on Savage rifles is an adjustable trigger system with a built in safety device. The trigger has a "blade" articulated into the trigger face. Picture the trigger on a Glock pistol. Unless the little doohickey on the Glock trigger is pulled back into the trigger, the trigger in turn cannot be pulled to its breaking point. That is how the blade on the Accutrigger functions. The trigger will not fire until the blade is pulled back into the trigger itself. That's the best way I can describe it.

    This blade also has the effect of making the trigger feel like a two stage trigger, with a light takeup, and a definite point where it will break. Thus, the trigger pull weight can be set fairly light from the factory, and it can be lightened further yet by the owner, if that's what you want. My son's rifle - a Savage 10FP HS Precision "tactical" rifle in .308 - is extremely accurate and the trigger is light enough from the factory that he felt no need to lighten it further. I have shot this rifle, and the trigger system works as advertised, but having shot traditional trigger systems for years, it took me a little while to get used to the feel of that "blade" in the Savage trigger. I would not let this stop me from purchasing one.
22" vs 24" barrels:
  • Longer barrels do NOT add to accuracy. I have a very accurate Remington 700 VSF in .308, and it has a 26" barrel. My son's equally accurate Savage has a 24" barrel.

    The length is not what makes it an accurate barrel. The diameter is the dimension that makes it accurate. This is why all varmint/sniper type rifles have fat barrels, regardless of the barrel length. Fatter barrels vibrate less than thinner barrels, thus there is less deviation off the bore axis at the muzzle at the very moment that the bullet exits the muzzle as the muzzle "whips" back and forth under vibration. In fact, the trend in modern sniper rifles is toward shorter barrels, because a short fat barrel vibrates still less amplitude than a long fat barrel. For the sniper in the field, this translates to a lighter rifle.

    The barrel's length can have two effects on the ballistics. One effect relates to bullet velocity. Most gunpowders are still burning when the bullet exits the barrel - which contributes to muzzle flash. Given the same cartridge in two otherwise identical rifles of differing barrel lengths, the velocity of the bullet exiting the longer barrel will be higher than the velocity of the bullet exiting the shorter barrel. This is due to powder burn time. The more time inside the barrel for powder to burn, the more velocity can be built up along the bore before the bullet exits the barrel. The higher the muzzle velocity, the greater the range of the rifle/cartridge combination. Modern sniper rifles with shorter barrels depend on cartridges with faster burning powders to make up the velocity loss due to barrel length, and to reduce muzzle flash which is a tactical liability.

    The second, and for the most part less important, effect is that of bullet stability. Theoretically, the more bore a barrel has, the more stabilized the bullet will be by the time it exits the barrel. Practically though, this is a non issue.
Free-floated barrels:
  • This one is simple. In general, a rifle with a free-floated barrel will be more accurate than one that isn't. Free floating means that the only place at which the barrel touches the rest of the rifle is at the point where it is joined to the action. When the barrel is free floated, there is no pressure being exerted by the barrel channel on any part of the barrel itself, which can affect barrel harmonics and throw off the bullet's point of impact.
Synthetic Vs Wood stocks:
  • Wood is prettier. Synthetic is more stable and resistant to the elements. I'm a guy who admires form that follows function, so I like synthetic stocks.
Savage VS Remington:
  • They both make excellent rifles. I prefer my Remington. My son prefers his Savage. Good luck with that. :mrgreen:

I hope this helps.
by The Annoyed Man
Thu Nov 11, 2010 11:00 am
Forum: Rifles & Shotguns
Topic: needin help choosing a rifle/caliber
Replies: 32
Views: 4947

Re: needin help choosing a rifle/caliber

tamc9395 wrote:I bought a Savage .270 about 12 years ago that had a stock scope on it and it remains dialed in. Now if I could only find the deer to dial into....
See, now if you had spent more money, you'd be properly motivated to go where the deer are. :smilelol5:
by The Annoyed Man
Tue Nov 09, 2010 10:09 pm
Forum: Rifles & Shotguns
Topic: needin help choosing a rifle/caliber
Replies: 32
Views: 4947

Re: needin help choosing a rifle/caliber

glock27 wrote:i know what you mean by the dreams. and your quote made my choice in caliber. 30-06 is what i plan to go with. im new to hunting rifles obviously, just curious on what manufacturers to stay away from. i figured bolt action would be the prefered way to go as i've read they are more accurate(but why?). can anyone point me in the direction of the best "bang for your buck" no pun intended, in 30-06, with or without a scope. im more a fan of wooden stocks as far as the looks goes but i am not particular. i know remington, winchester are going to be at the top of the list. how is savage in 30-06?
Bolt action rifles are desirable in a general purpose hunting rifle for a number of reasons. One is that, compared to either semi-automatic or lever rifles, the bolt rifle will usually be more accurate because of the way the bolt locks up. There are semi-autos that are as accurate as any bolt rifle - the FNAR comes to mind - but they will also be extremely expensive. Also, compared to most lever rifles, the bolt action is a stronger lockup, and therefore can handle higher pressure cartridges with greater power and range. Those are a few reasons, and there are others.

Probably the best deal in terms of quality for the buck is the Savage line of rifles. They have the AccuTrigger, which is very good, and they all have free-floated barrels, which will aid in accuracy. Also, the Savage receiver is very strong. There are cheaper bolt rifles, Stevens for instance, but they won't be as nice for the dollar. If you're willing to take a step up from the Savages in quality (and price), the Remington 700 rifles are very good... ...but you will pay a bit more. Also, Ruger makes good bolt rifles at a reasonable price. As far as I know, all their bolt rifles include a Mauser type controlled feed extractor - at least the old one that I have does. All three manufacturers - Savage, Remington, and Ruger - offer wood-stocked rifles.
by The Annoyed Man
Tue Nov 09, 2010 8:32 am
Forum: Rifles & Shotguns
Topic: needin help choosing a rifle/caliber
Replies: 32
Views: 4947

Re: needin help choosing a rifle/caliber

.30-06 is the way to go. Don't buy a magnum unless you really need a magnum. Most people, including dedicated rifle shooters, don't find magnums that much fun to shoot. Less fun = less shooting = less proficiency with the rifle. The .30-06 will take anything in north America, including large bears. Alternatively, a rifle chambered in .308 Winchester would be very nearly as versatile in terms of bullet selection, and will also take anything in the lower 48 states. Those two calibers also have the advantage of being available pretty much anywhere that ammo is for sale, with a slight edge going to the .30-06.

Unless you're saving money for a guided Alaskan bear hunt, you don't need a magnum. If you are saving money for a guided Alaskan bear hunt, then a higher quality rifle with a scope of matching quality (total expenditure in the $2000-$3000 range) is called for, and it is a fraction of the total cost of the hunt — so don't skimp.

Everyone has dreams. Be realistic about what you're actually likely to do with this rifle. That's my best advice.

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