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MaduroBU wrote:If you solder it, remember a few things.

1.) Get a bigger torch than you think you'll need. A TS8000 with MAPP gas Heats the pipe faster and makes it easier to heat everything evenly.

2) the pipe cannot be too clean. You need to use emery cloth and/or a wire brush until the pipe surface is as shiny as copper that you just cut. Grind a piece of waste pipe with a dremel tool grinding wheel. THAT'S how shiny you need the pipe to be before you flux it.

3.) Flux anywhere that you want solder to stick. Solder won't stick to pipe that isn't clean and fluxed. Solder won't stay around forever, and will burn away if you're heating the pipe for a full minute trying to get it all hot at once. See point 1.

4.) Use lead free plumbing solder.

couzin wrote:Previous repair to a gas line (entire line from meter to pipe entering house) was connected with shark bite fittings, four years later one pulled apart, water flooded the line, and gas entered the house before we woke up and called Atmos. Had to redo both ends of line and of course pass pressure inspection again. House next door had a water line repaired with shark bite and one of those let go as well. No more shark bites - at least not in this blackland clay.

AndyC wrote:Sweating copper piping: https://www.familyhandyman.com/plumbing ... /view-all/

I learned how to do this when helping a friend build a hunting camp; not hard.

swilkes wrote:Shark bite fitting. And pex A lil expensive but easy to do

Two coupling prob 3/4”. A foot of 3/4” pex. All bought from lowes. Cut out broke section and bend pex into place. The longer the pex the easier to bend and connect. Pretty sure shark bites will fit on Cooper, cpvc, and iron pipe as long as it is not to rusted. I know for a fact it won’t go over pvc.