Somewhat agree. Lots of very experienced folks on this forum and you will glean good advice.
My views of belts from carrying all day every day for over 3 decades is simply this: obsess over having a high quality holster - one that gives enough friction for retention during normal activities like stooping, yet is durable enough to not pose reholstering issues due to wear or material fatigue.
I favor holsters over belt stiffness. A belt needs to be stiff enough to carry the weight of the loaded firearm and holster without drooping away from your body. The stiffest belt in the world is useless if it is worn loose. A loose gun belt during draw results in lifting the entire holster until the top of the belt hits the top of the belt loop on your trousers. And if the trousers are loose fitting at the waist, the firearms will remain in the holster until the seam of your pants hits you between the legs to stop upward movement. It is at this time, the firearm in a properly fitting holster will become separated from the holster. This translates into lost time.
An adequately cinched up belt eliminates this "lift dwell" during draw so the firearm clears the holster sooner. Proper cinching second to a proper holster. Belt stiffness is important, but is my last consideration.
Having run full size guns with double mags on Jones Tactical riggers belts (not stiff) and shooters belts (incredibly stiff) properly cinched with a high quality custom kydex holster, I notice zero difference in draw times. And no drooping with the thinner riggers belt.
Same with Hank's leather belts - no difference in draw times and no droop between the 14 / 16 oz gun belt and the 20 oz steel core model.
The "tactical" belts you see at stores selling tactical clothing are usually garbage. If you can fold the belt in half so it is double thick and still feed it through your trouser belt loop folded end first, you are holding junk not suitable for a cap gun.
