OK...I think that is like a commander or 4" Kimber...right?Chickenman wrote:Kimber .45 Pro Tac II
Not sure if the Kimber has a full length guide rod or the standard "GI" style arrangement, but, if you can strip the slide from frame, barrel from slide...then the recoil spring is easy...switch springs and reassemble.
For the firing pin spring, remove the slide from the frame. Now depress the firing pin with a small punch while pushing the firing pin stop downward out of its slot...now catch the firing pin and spring as it launches across the room.
Actually cup you hand over the end of the slide to prevent this. 
Reinsert the firing pin and new spring, depress gently with a punch while starting the firing pin stop into it's slot. Work the stop over the head of the firing pin. When the firing pin stop seats, the firing pin will pop into the hole in the center of the stop. Done.For the hammer spring, everyone has his own technique. Some even have specialized tools...but here's what I do. Remove the mainspring housing and gently clamp it in a vise with nonmarring jaws. With a small punch, push down on the mainspring cup (that's probably not what it's called but it's what the hammer spur presses against as the hammer is cocked). With the mainspring depressed, remove the mainspring cup retaining pin (it's small and will press out from the part of the housing that is in your palm as you grip the pistol). Press it from the exterior of the housing to the interior (the side next to the magwell and three leaf spring). Gently release the pressure of the mainspring (be carefull...this one likes to jump out too). Remove cup, replace spring, replace cup. Depress cup with a punch to compress the mainspring. Reinsert mainspring cup retaining pin. (Don't slip...or you'll be hunting the spring)
Release the pressure from the punch...done.Now, with that said, I would not deviate too much from the factory specs of the spring weights. Generally, shorter barrel 1911s have heavier recoil and hammer springs than their 5" big brothers. Reason being is that the shorter pistols have a shorter cycle in which to operate, thus needing a heavier spring arrangement to do the same work as the cycle of a 5" pistol. Some people will put heavier recoil springs thinking it makes the pistol more reliable when actually, with a weak magazine spring, could cause the pistol to fail to feed. Others will lighten the mainspring to improve trigger pull not realizing that this actually lightens the overall recoil mechanism of the pistol too. This could cause frame battering on lightwieght models with high round counts.
YMMV